Mariscos Becerra: Smoking By the Water's Edge

Categories: Tijuana Sí!
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Dave Lieberman
The sun was in our eyes as Greer and I headed west toward Playas de Tijuana on the border-hugging Avenida Internacional; we'd skipped lunch, knowing that gastronomic wonders awaited us past the new El Chaparral border checkpoint.

"I know a great place for a seafood lunch," I said knowingly. Then--it always happens when someone else is watching--I got lost. Made wrong turns. Drove past the same under-construction condominium three times. Passed a carnitas tent three times. It was embarrassing, but finally I managed to make the correct turns and we pulled up in front of a non-descript building featuring a thatched roof and a huge bar in front.

This is Mariscos Becerra, and the two women who run the kitchen, Enriqueta and Alicia, looked surprised to see us coming in for such a late lunch. The owner, Jaime Ochoa Becerra, was out shopping for ingredients. We sat down and ordered tall draughts of Indio and the restaurant's finest speciality, almejas ahumadas--smoked clams.

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Bol Corona: Gambling on Burritos in Post-U.S. Prohibition Tijuana

Categories: Tijuana Sí!

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Bill Esparza


It was 1934, the 21st Amendment to the U.S. Constitution had just repealed prohibition at the close of 1933, and a year later, Mexican president Lázaro Cárdenas would outlaw gambling and close Tijuana's world famous Agua Caliente Casino and Hotel. This was the state of things in Tijuana the year Don Angel opened the Club Corona--the party was over, Al Capone was locked up in Alcatraz; Margarita Carmen Cansino, aka, Rita Hayworth was a 16 year old entertainer in Tijuana clubs; and the Hollywood elite returned home the novelty of legal boozing north of the border. 


Sr. Angel's northern style burritos soon became the hot ticket items on the menu, and in 1940 he changed the name to its current, Bol Corona. This was just the right food at the right time when workers started flooding in to Tijuana during WWII to take part in the Bracero program, which had Mexican workers come north to replace American laborers fighting overseas. Hearty stews and braises wrapped in a handmade flour tortilla were affordable and portable--Bol Corona developed a slightly larger burrito than those found in Sonora, and a winning set of fillings that has helped this franchise endure for almost 80 years, and it's still going strong.

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Viñedos Malagón: When Life Gives You Lemons, Make Limoncello

Categories: Tijuana Sí!
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Dave Lieberman
The village of Francisco Zarco, the largest settlement in the Valle de Guadalupe, sits at the junction of Federal Highway 3 and the paved road leading to La Misión. It's a hive of activity at certain times of day; outdoor chicken grills line the main boulevard, and people drive up and down from shop to shop. The road is lined with topes (speed bumps as only Mexico can imagine them) to keep pedestrians safe; there's nearly always a minor traffic jam.

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Feliz Año Nuevo 2013: Ring in the New Year, Tijuana-Style

Categories: Tijuana Sí!

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Bill Esparza
Elvia and Daniela at Villa Saverios


Let's face it--New Year's Eve is a rip-off. It's a night of price-gouging and impossible missions to make it safely back home, at least without having to pay for an expensive limo service. As a professional musician, I've spent most of my New Year's Eve's sober and dreading the running-of-the-borrachos, drive home at 1 a.m., but have chosen in recent years to take the night off. A couple of those New Year's Eve's have been in Tijuana--there will be parties from TJ to Cabo, but Tijuana is the preferred destination to get wild.

There's nothing you can't do north of the border to ring in the new year in terms of restaurant packages and clubbing--it's just a whole lot cheaper. Most of the restaurants in the Zona Rio will have four-course meals with champagne for under $100, then it's off to Las Pulgas for la noche paisa to hear some banda, or shaking your ass with the fresas at Classico (this gets my vote), or doing the Mexi-hipster stumble down La 6ta. There are plenty of cabs to drive you to the border, or take you to your hotel--it's an affordable night of traditional New Year's Eve activities, and your breakfast options are plentiful in fighting la cruda. Here are a couple of ways to ring in the New Year in Tijuana.
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Tacos de Pescado Los Originales: Naked, Flaked, and Sacred

Categories: Tijuana Sí!
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Dave Lieberman
Accept no imitations!
It's time to take back the fish taco.

Enough with the soft, mushy, grilled "healthy" fish tacos. Find a different name for it--tacos de guacareada come to mind--and leave the original tacos de pescado estilo Ensenada alone. A real fish taco is a piece of deep-fried fish--preferably shark, but any moist white fish will do in a pinch--on a tortilla.

Again--if it's not deep-fried, it's not a real fish taco. Period.

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Santa Rosalia, B.C.S: Baja's Daily Bread

Categories: Tijuana Sí!
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Bill Esparza
Panaderia El Boleo, Santa Rosalia, B.C.S. Founded in 1901



One of the many generous concessions to foreign investors during the Porfiriato was a 70-year contract granted to the Compagnie du Boleo to mine copper in the town of Santa Rosalia,B.C.S from 1885 until their tax exemption ended in 1954. The venture ended in a state of bankruptcy, and all attempts since then to revive the mine haven't been profitable. The French mining company installed a prefabricated metal church designed by Alexandre Gustav Eiffel, French architecture, and a bakery to give homesick Frenchmen the dignity of fresh baguettes. 

It took a few years for Panaderia El Boleo to arrive(there must of been mutinous talk at the close of the 19th Century),but it was clearly designed to feed an army of workers with its gigantic ovens. I had never lucked out driving to and from Loreto to experience Santa Rosalia by day--at night it almost feels like a ghost town--until a few summers ago when I got to see the Southern Baja California's northernmost outpost on the Sea of Cortez at sunrise. We had to wait for signs of life in the sleepy town that France forgot, but were rewarded with some of the best pan dulce I've ever tasted--this is a required stop for all Baja adventurers road-ripping the peninsula. 
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Leyva's Liquors: Always, Always Your Last Stop Before Heading for the Border

Categories: Tijuana Sí!
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Dave Lieberman
You'll curse the stupid California law that limits you to one bottle.
Three weeks ago, Bill gave what may be the world's first quasi-comprehensive guide to the vendors swirling around the mass fustercluck known as the northbound border crossing at San Ysidro; it's only quasi-comprehensive because the vendors change occasionally.

Today, Tijuana Sí! covers what should always, always be your last stop before heading into that U.S.-caused mess: Leyva's Liquors, the largest, best, cheapest, most honest liquor store on that tawdry tangle of painted donkeys and sort-of-aggressive shopkeepers known as Avenida Revolución.

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La Contra Mobil, Estacion de Oficios: The Urban Liver Assault Vehicle that's Quite Possibly the World's First Wine RV

Categories: Tijuana Sí!
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Bill Esparza
La Contra Mobil 

When privates John Winger and Russell Ziskey in the Cold War classic Stripes thought of picking the girls up in West Germany for a joy ride in the EM-50, aka Urban Assault Vehicle, it would have been nice if they'd saved some room in that bad boy for some booze,no? The EM-50, while great for picking up girls in Minsk, is no match for a brilliant, revolutionary RV that has hit the dusty trails of the Valle de Guadalupe

Leading Mexican oenologist, and Valle de Guadalupe leader Hugo D'Acosta is always thinking out of the box, and has a mind for aesthetics and design. D'Acosta, his brother Alejandro, and Hugo's wife Claudia Turrent--both architects--have been etching an indelible imprint on wine making and construction in the Valle. In 1992 they began the Estación de Oficios, more well-known as la escuelita (the little school), for local winemakers, which has been instrumental in moving the Valle into the current trend of boutique wineries. Then came La Contra--arguably Mexico's best wine shop--a small chain which brings D'Acosta's wines and the labels produced at la escuelita to the Mexican market. But this past summer they outdid themselves with La Contra Mobil, a converted 1980's model Allegro RV that's been outfitted with wine racks, a wine fridge for whites, and a central cooling system--it's the world's first wine truck!

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Tacos El Paisano: Pass Me Another Taco, Bro

Categories: Tijuana Sí!
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Dave Lieberman
You're drunk. You're not quite falling-down drunk, but you find yourself in Rosarito in a state of advanced inebriation brought on by seemingly endless plastic cups full of dubious margaritas at Papas & Beer. It doesn't matter that it's only 3 p.m.; you're still just wasted, bro, and now you're hungry. Hungry, when you're young and going to Baja to drink, means tacos, and specifically dollar tacos.

Rosarito's not the gastronomic paradise that Tijuana, Ensenada and the Valle de Guadalupe are--yet--but one thing it can certainly furnish is tacos.

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San Ysidro Border Crossing: Food and Shopping Tips to Survive the Border Copacalypse

Categories: Tijuana Sí!
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Bill Esparza
Fruit vendor at the San Ysidro crossing


Things have been picking up lately in Baja. Mexican-Americans, or pochos, from San Diego are getting their drink on at the ever popular La Sexta(La Revu for Tijuanans)--even touristy Puerto Nuevo is reporting visitors coming from all over the US to experience lard-fried lobster with giant flour tortillas, and refried beans. Every where I go I run into blond-haired, blue-eyed San Diegans in the Valle de Guadalupe tasting wine, lining up for a sea urchin tostada from Dona Sabina in Ensenada, or at one of our regular stops in Tijuana--last time I was at El Mazateno, Ryan Seacrest's doppelganger walked up to me and said he was coming down for their famous shrimp taco because he read about it in our articles, and had to have it. Down in Ensenada, Hussong's and Papas and Beer are once again packed full of conga-lining, zarape wearing crazies swimming in tequila and beer.

Having been going down to Baja on a monthly basis since just after the Millennium, and visiting with even more frequency during Tijuana's darkest period(around 2009-2010)through today--I've witnessed it's return to calm. What still remains a complete drain on many people's trip across the border is the oppressive wait to drive back across--usually more than 2 hours. To watch a drop in visitors after the sensationalized tales of drug war violence, the new passport requirement placed on travelers by the WHTI, and then the H1N1 panic of 2009(far more died in the US), you'd think the line would move faster, but no! When it comes to service and efficiency, the US Customs and Border Protection agency makes the US Postal Service look like Chipotle. But there's good news--food and shopping while driving through the San Ysidro gate crossing has never been better--here's a few pointers to pass the time while border agents yawn and dawdle their way through your inspection process.

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