"I know a great place for a seafood lunch," I said knowingly. Then--it always happens when someone else is watching--I got lost. Made wrong turns. Drove past the same under-construction condominium three times. Passed a carnitas tent three times. It was embarrassing, but finally I managed to make the correct turns and we pulled up in front of a non-descript building featuring a thatched roof and a huge bar in front.
This is Mariscos Becerra, and the two women who run the kitchen, Enriqueta and Alicia, looked surprised to see us coming in for such a late lunch. The owner, Jaime Ochoa Becerra, was out shopping for ingredients. We sat down and ordered tall draughts of Indio and the restaurant's finest speciality, almejas ahumadas--smoked clams.