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The Best Taco in Orange County is..

Posted by Gustavo Arellano in Revisiting a Review

December 8, 2008 4:53 AM

Permalink | Comments (14)

*Moved up, 'cause the conversation is raging--and where the hell are you, Cheeser???

I love all of you, o readers and commentators (especially the commentators), and one of the most loyal is Cesar Madrid. He's always bilingually witty and profane, whether talking about Gunkist historians, the Catholic Church sex-abuse scandal, or food. But I pissed off ol' Cheeser last month when I declared Taquería Tapatía the best taquería in Orange County. The guy knows my stuff, because he reminded me I once said Carnitas Los Reyes "just might be the best taquería" in la naranja. Out of respect for Cesar, I revisited the Orange taquería the morning after Thanksgiving and ordered two tacos.

Strike one: whereas last year they still cost a dollar, Carnitas Los Reyes now charge $1.15 for tacos. Granted, the tacos are huge, and three will bloat you, but am I the only person disturbed that most tacos have now crossed the Rubicon that is a dollar?!

Strike two: The red salsa was flat--absolutely flat. You should never ask for Tapatio at a Mexican restaurant--if their house salsa isn't better than the mass-produced stuff, there is a problem. I asked for Tapatío.

And then, I began to eat.

The carne asada taco was delicious but underwhelming, only because of the lack of a good salsa. But the chorizo taco...let's revisit what I said before:

Order the carnitas if you must, but I like my pork as chorizo, and Carnitas Los Reyes sells the best chorizo that isn't prepared by my Tía María. The chorizo is grated until it's as fine as salt, then cooked in oil that looks and feels like transmission fluid but tastes like a thousand spicy hogs. The obsidian-toned meat is gritty, and the flavor subsumes your palate with its thick coat.

Carnitas Los Reyes makes the best taco in Orange County with its chorizo taco. The meat is so flavorful that, even if the house salsa was delicious, I would've eschewed it to ensure my palate didn't stray from the power of the seasoning. I can't even explain what was in the chorizo, but a full peppercorn did make it on the tortilla---mmm, full peppercorn. And the grease was still as industrial-grade delicious as I remember it. Given its size and its relatively cheap price (but still: the Rubicon!!!), it is the best taco by far in Orange County, especially since Taqueria El Granjenal in Costa Mesa jumped the shark years ago once Koreans bought it.

I still wouldn't call Carnitas Los Reyes the best taqueria in Orange County--the salsa is an embarrassment, and the restaurant isn't open 24 hours a day, as any good taqueria should. Nevertheless, foodies must trek hear to worship at the altar of sublime, greasy hog. Wash down with pineapple juice, por favor.

CARNITAS LOS REYES, 273 S. TUSTIN ST., ORANGE, (714) 744-9337

 

Comments (14)

1. David M says:
   December 2, 2008 11:31

   Gustavo my name is David M and I am a Gringo. From the age of 5 until I was 16 years old, I lived in Mexico from Chihuahua to Baja California. From the age of 12 to 16 I was a homeless kid roaming alone throughout Mexico living under the stars and eating from handouts, restaurant garbage cans and the odd rattlesnake and rabbit I was able to get. In my humble opinion there is no better food than that served at Mama Espinoza's Restaurant in El Rosario Baja California and for Orange County there is no better Mexican restaurant than Taquería Los Grandes located at 1736 W 5th St. Santa Ana, CA 92703. (714) 647-9862.

2. Gustavo Arellano says:
   December 2, 2008 11:57

   Speak of the devil...David M., as luck would have it, I passed by Los Grandes just a couple of minutes ago! I've heard nothing but raves about the place, and I will now stop by based on your rec. Gracias for leaving a comment!

3. DanGarion says:
   December 2, 2008 12:44

   I can't believe you didn't pick Del Taco's classic taco...

4. El taco Rosita says:
   December 2, 2008 18:57

   After much discussion with my fellow taco lovers, we have unanimously decided that the Pink Taco trumps ALL tacos!

5. L.A. Wab says:
   December 2, 2008 19:14

   DanGarion:

   That ain't a taco. That's gabacho flojeria.

6. hungrymomma says:
   December 2, 2008 21:10

   Gustavo..Seriously, revisiting tacos again? Show me some variety! This is a food blog no, not a taco blog!

7. Gustavo Arellano says:
   December 3, 2008 09:14

   Hungrymomma: What do you got against tacos, anyways??? And if you're asking for variety, you ain't reading every day, are you? Now leave me alone as I munch on leftover pupusas from El Chinaco...

8. Christian says:
   December 3, 2008 10:21

   So the pink taco says that The Pink Taco has the best tacos? Is the Pink Taco ever going to open in OC?

   And who cares if this blog mentions tacos from time to time? It lets me know about all the places I still have left to cover.

9. hungrypoppa says:
   December 3, 2008 10:25

   Gustavo que pasa con tigo, you missed hungrymomma's point altogether. There are other things to eat out there besides pupusas and tacos... Psst for REAL Pupusas
   make the trek over to Molcajete in LA.

10. L.A. Wab says:
    December 3, 2008 12:07

    And once again, hungrymomma and poppa, you missed Gustavo's point: READ THE BLOG MORE OFTEN. The man eats and reviews a HELL of a lot more than just tacos.

    If I ever go out far into OC than just Disneyland, I know where to get good pho, agua chile, and burgers.

11. Diamond Dog says:
    December 7, 2008 11:59

    I agree these are the best tacos in S. Cal. But I don't understand why you and Elmo go here and don't order the Carnitas?

    Do you go to Flemings STEAKhouse and order the chicken? Carnitas is in their name. Why wouldn't you order that when its in their NAME?

    I can handle the .15 price increase. And I am cheap. look at my post on Elmo's review this week on the Pho place (Kim Huong) that tricks people into paying 50 cents for tap water!

    I never tried the chorizo until today based on your recomendation. I cant see eating more than one. Its pretty greasy...but good. It has a strong clove/cinnimon taste to it which will either be unique to people or creepy. I found it unique and good.

12. Mystress Syrah says:
    December 7, 2008 21:58

    I'm shocked that you didn't mention the chicarron taco. I only tried it based on your recommendation, and it was one of the greatest cul-epiphanies of my life. It's frustrating to go there, all ready to order one, and have them be out of chicarron. I love the chorizo, but I'll take that skin-'o-pig any day of the week.

13. Gustavo Arellano says:
    December 8, 2008 09:14

    Diamond: Believe or not, I hate carnitas--too fatty for me. But my friends who love the meat swear by these.

    Mystress: The chicharrón taco is like that exploding eclair Homer nearly ate when he was a food critic--so good you'll DIE.

14. Melissa says:
    December 9, 2008 16:26

    Just went here on Saturday. Finally. Read your review on their counter while I was waiting in line (I read the original when it was published and I also read this post last week). I took home the carnitas plate, a barbacoa taco and a chorizo taco - the last one only because of you.

    Thank you! Most unusual and awesome and spicy chorizo ever. Fantastic.

    Barbacoa and carnitas were also outstanding, but we found the carnitas actually needed salt. Of all things.

    Salsa is terrible. But everything else makes it worth it. I would go back in a heartbeat.