Orange County Food Blog

Courtesy of Mariscos Puerto Esperanza

​Santiago Vallejo has an impressive résumé: formerly at the Ritz, he left to open his own restaurant, Mariscos Puerto Esperanza, in a tiny shopping center in Orange. It caused an immediate sensation on the food boards (Chowhound, Yelp, etc.) and Edwin himself weighed in positively (his review is framed on the bar). Chef Santiago took a few minutes out of his day to answer our silly survey for this week's On the Line:

1. Dish you cook that most represents you.

Pescado zarandeado (Nayarit-style grilled fish). Even in this economy, we go through 40 pounds a week of it. We used to use local robalo (snook), but lately we've been getting it from Mexico, it's better there.

2. What was the last meal you had at home?

I think the last thing I made at home was barbacoa de chivo and consomé.

3. Your favorite restaurant (other than yours):

Besides my own? I think Maya Restaurant in Los Angeles and San Francisco. I love their tuna. I admire Charlie Trotter, too.

Xanh Bistro

​
Haley Nguyen is a woman of many talents: She teaches at Saddleback Community College, she leads culinary tours of Little Saigon and her native Vietnam, and she even arranges cooking classes in her restaurant, Xanh Bistro, the most accessible-to-newcomers Viet place in the county, the best Vietnamese place to take a first date, and one of my favorite places to eat. (Xanh is pronounced "sahn", incidentally, and it means "green" in Vietnamese.)

Here, then, are Haley's good-natured responses to our survey.

1. Dish you cook that most represents you.

Cá kho tộ--fish in clay pot. I've made it ever since I can remember. I came from a humble background in Vietnam, so this is such comfort food to me, the rice and the caramel sauce. It was life, it was happiness. I still eat it every day.

2. What was the last meal you had at home?

Kimchi and rice. You know how sometimes a chef doesn't want to think about cooking after a long day and just wants a greasy hamburger? I just want a bowl of steamed rice and some plain soup. It's satisfying and I don't have to think about it.

3. Your favorite restaurant (other than yours):

Charlie Trotter's in Chicago. We got to go into the kitchen, and it was incredibly quiet, low lights, like a lab. I love exquisite food done right, and I had foie gras there for the first time. We had a tapioca with coconut milk that showed the Asian influence.

Locally, I think my favorite is Kappo Honda. But they're always so busy!

​ Of all the chefs and restauranteurs we've profiled on this blog feature, I can't say that I've met any of them in person. But I can say that I have had the pleasure of meeting James Sar of Cambinos Asian BBQ . If you eat at there, you will too. James will be the one taking your order and serving your food.

His is a joint with no silverware or china; just paper plates. But on those plates he will pile rice, roasted veggies, and mountains of meat, including chicken skewers, beef short ribs, and his signature pork spareribs.

You might say James' food is akin to Hawaiian plate lunches, but that wouldn't be accurate. His food defies classification. It's not exacty Cambodian, nor Filipino (Cambinos is a portmanteau of the two words), but it's not what you'd call American BBQ either. It is just plain good, evidenced by the fact that we featured him many a time here on our pages (both web and printed), including our Summer Guide and Best Of Issue.

But enough about his food. Here is more from the Man, as he responds to our silly survey.

1. Dish that you cook that most represents you.

It would have to be the spare ribs. We both look pretty ordinary on the outside but once you get a taste, we are bursting with flavor.

2. What was the last meal you had at home?

I made yellow pancakes stuffed with ground pork and shrimp. All served with bean sprouts, cucumber, basil, and wrapped with lettuce and dipped into a light fish sauce.

Cleveland: Ex-cellent!

​I'm still mad at Avanti Cafe for stopping their International Tuesdays, so that just means I now try to visit once a week instead of every other day. I usually visit in the evening, when Mark Cleveland relieves his co-owner Tanya Fuqua in a transition as seamless as a Jamaican 4x100 relay baton passing. They've made Avanti the place for innovative vegan cooking in Orange County since 2005, and the two concoct the best drinks this side of Memphis at the Santora. We nabbed Cleveland instead of Fuqua, only because he's the obsessive Tweeter/Facebooker among the bunch:


1. Dish that you cook that most represents you.

Mujadarah - Lebanese rice & lentils w/ caramelized onions & black pepper. When I first read the recipe I could see it played out in my reinvention the way musicians can read sheet music & hear the piece. I made it my own by switching immediately to brown rice, blending a mixture of organic brown rice varieties & blending colorful lentils as well, toasting black & brown sesame seeds, grinding our Avanti black pepper blend & caramelizing large quantities of half moon sliced yellow onions in extra virgin olive oil & grapeseed oil. A classic comfort food reinvented for wholesome American abundance.

2. What was the last meal you had at home?

Wide noodles w/ lemon grass sriracha ketchup & Avanti pepperoncini sauce over cold organic iceberg lettuce salad w/ home grown Tabasco chili peppers, cucumbers, red peppers & chives, garnished w/ white miso millet, quinoa, amaranth & pumpkin (a delicious concoction of food gifts, South Coast Farm favorites & leftovers)

3. Your favorite restaurant (other than yours):

Any of the many Buddhist temples on Mt. Koya in Wakayama ken south of Nara Japan. Shojin ryori vegan temple food is a complete revelation.

4. Fast food guilty pleasure:

Batter fried mixed vegetable platters - including onion rings, taters, yams, taro, mushrooms, peppers, zucchini, etc. w/ blue cheese dip

5. Complete this sentence I would like to [verb] [Food Network Star] with [noun]. (for example: "I would like to BEAT BOBBY FLAY with A STALE BAGUETTE." or "I would like to SHOWER GIADA DE LAURENTIIS with FLOWERS"):

Photo Courtesy of Andrei's

​Yves Fournier was born in Paris and has worked just about everywhere in the world, including France, England, New York, and, of course, Irvine, where he was Chef de Cuisine for 6ix Park Grill at the Hyatt Regency.  Now he is the Executive Chef of Andrei's, which coincidentally is the restaurant that won our kudos for Best French Fries.  Here are his answers to our silly survey.

1. Dish that you cook that most represents you.

Braised Beef Short Ribs - they are robust and strong but at the same time, delicate and tender.

2. What was the last meal you had at home?

Whole roasted duck with thyme from my garden, Fountain Valley farm stand green beans with extra virgin olive oil, Tahitian squash, cippolini onions and fingerling potatoes (a sample from one of my vendors), creamed corn, mixed greens and a glass of wine but no space for a sweet dessert, just Manchego cheese and Oregon Blue from Rogue Creamery. You just happened to ask on the right day!!!

3. Your favorite restaurant (other than yours):

New York: Tabla - Bread Bar, Gotham Bar and Grill, Balthazar for breakfast. Vegas: San Marco at the Venetian to sit at the Salumi bar and have wine and small plates. California: OC - Marche Moderne. I love the creativity of Florent and Amelie's food. Santa Monica: Anisette, the place to be after the market for brunch and a great chef. Paris: Le Souk, Benoit, L'Arpege.

Continue reading " On The Line: Yves Fournier"...

Photo By Russ Roca

​
Every city should have a chef like John McLaughlin, who at his At Last Café cooks gourmet food but charges diner prices.  Long Beach, you're lucky to have him.  And we are lucky that he agreed to answer our silly survey.

1. Dish that you cook that most represents you.

That's the hardest question! The answer is our newest specials--I try to make them creative and interesting.

​

San Juan Cap's most famous eaterie has been home (literally) to Newport Beach native John Q Humphreys for the last 15 years. During that time it has built a reputation for low-key yet memorable grub, in particular a stellar brekkie/brunch. While succumbing to our inquisition, he gets fruity and violent.

1. Dish that you cook that most represents you.

Collard greens with smoked bacon and molasses.

2. What was the last meal you had at home?

Well since I live at my restaurant, that's a loaded question... But I guess it would be the Fruity Pebbles cereal that I'm eating right now.


 

Photo Courtesy of Deborah Schneider

​Deborah Schneider is the chef/owner behind the buzz-worthy and praise-worthy SOL Cocina in Newport Beach. Herewith are her answers to our silly survey.

1. Dish that you cook that most represents you.

That would be our Toffee Cake with Butterscotch Sauce, which has followed me for many years. Like me, it draws inspiration from all 3 of my 'homes.' The recipe has English roots (I'm Canadian) with dates and orange zest, but I make the sauce with piloncillo and serve it warm with a scoop of ice cream and tons of gooey sauce in typically over-the-top American style. I want one right now.

​Stanton may be an unlikely place to open a destination restaurant, but, with Park Ave, chef and managing partner David Slay has made it work. OK, you may find a burger on the menu, but it'll be sitting alongside the likes of scallops and filet mignon. And those 'fresh-clipped greens (which, as you can see below, Slay is partial to himself)? They're exactly that--he takes great pride in Park Ave's garden (ask your server and you may even get a tour).

1. Dish that you cook that most represents you.

When I cook, I don't like to make it about me, but about everyone else. That said, the kind of dish that represents me is simple, not tricked up, and uses only the freshest and finest ingredients!

2. What was the last meal you had at home?

Last night I made grilled steaks with fresh-clipped lettuces with shaved parmesan. We also ate homemade flatbread with end-of-season tomatoes and Stilton with tomato jam.

3. Your favorite restaurant (other than yours):

Dan Tana's in West Hollywood. I like the old-school vibe and there's always a fun crowd.

John Gilhooley

​Aron Habiger is the wunderkind chef behind the scenes at the so-hip-it-hurts hangout The Crosby in Santa Ana.

Here are his answers to our survey.

1. Dish that you cook that most represents you.

Jerk torta.

2. What was the last meal you had at home?

Peanut butter and jelly on white bread.

3. Your favorite restaurant (other than yours):

Momofuko in NYC.

​An early pioneer of the sushi conveyor belt concept in New York, James Hamamori worked at Asakuma in Los Angeles before teaming up with entrepreneur Bronnie Lee and opening the first of several Wasa Sushi outlets. Hamamori, located in the satellite wing of South Coast Plaza, followed in December 2007.

With its upscale interior and high-end menu of stunningly fresh fish, not to mention its posh mall setting, the restaurant practically screams "Orange County." But that doesn't mean you need an expense account to dine here: The generously portioned $9 two-course lunch is a steal.

Here, Hamamori confesses his love for Taco Bell (worrying!), and about making sushi for all the Food Network chefs. Ah, how nice... Unless he's planning on serving dodgy fugu, that is.

Photo Courtesy of Jason's Catering

​Jason Kordas has catered for Bill Clinton, Al Gore and Pete Wilson. And for the past two years, his Santa Ana restaurant Jason's Downtown has been a fixture of the downtown dining and music scene.

Kordas also still offers his catering services if you have people at your shin dig to feed.  And you don't have to have held a political office to secure his talents.

 

Here are his answers to our survey.

1. Dish that you cook that most represents you.

Caribbean Rumaki - bananas wrapped in applewood smoked bacon in a brown sugar rum spice glaze. Love bananas and swine is fine!!

2. What was the last meal you had at home?

Pizzadillas w/ my son for dinner with gala apples and popcorn.

3. Your favorite restaurant (other than yours):

In OC, Stonehill Tavern; in NYC, Babbo; in San Fran, The Boulevard.

4. Fast food guilty pleasure:

Wienerschnitzel's chili cheese dog--a couple times a month got to drive thru and get one on the run.

5. Complete this sentence I would like to [verb] [Food Network Star] with [noun].
(for example: "I would like to BEAT BOBBY FLAY with A STALE BAGUETTE." or "I would like to SHOWER GIADA DE LAURENTIIS with FLOWERS"):

I would like to beat all the Iron Chefs in a cook off. Then sit down with Cora and drink Ouzo. Hey, I can dream can't I?

Continue reading " On the Line: Jason Kordas"...

​Three decades ago, Mead ditched his job at the IRS in Washington, DC, and moved to the west coast to pursue his culinary dreams.

After opening restaurants in and around LA, he set his sights further south, launching Sage in Newport Beach in 1997. Seven years later came a posher sibling, Sage on the Coast. Mead is a fan of fresh, seasonal ingredients: If you get a chance, try his tasting menus.

Here he talks about his last meal on earth--great choices!--and love-him-or-hate-him Guy Fieri (it's not hard to tell which side of the fence he's on).


1.  Dish that you cook that most represents you.

Our Herb Roast Half Chicken. It's simple, and much like myself--crispy on the outside but moist and juicy on the inside.

2.  What was the last meal you had at home?

Toasted english muffin with peanut butter and yogurt with strawberries and bananas.

Tim Melideo

Rachel Klemek is the owner/chef/instructor of Blackmarket Bakery, her made-from-scratch bakery in Irvine.

You'll also see Blackmarket weekly at farmers' markets around O.C., but most especially at the Saturday Irvine Farmers' Market across from UCI.

Here are her answers to our survey.

1. Dish that you cook that most represents you.

Other than baking, my "dish" at home is popcorn - old school style with the pan, lid, oil, butter & salt.

2. What was the last meal you had at home?

Soft tacos with shrimp, avocado, corn, rice, black beans & oyster sauce.

3. Your favorite restaurant (other than yours):

Kepley's Barbecue in High Point, NC - I grew up with their Carolina-style vinegary pork BBQ sandwiches and amazing hush puppies.

4. Fast food guilty pleasure:

Tommy's Chili Cheese Fries - whoa.

5. Complete this sentence I would like to [verb] [Food Network Star] with [noun].
(for example: "I would like to BEAT BOBBY FLAY with A STALE BAGUETTE." or "I would like to SHOWER GIADA DE LAURENTIIS with FLOWERS"):

I would like to drive to Las Vegas with Alton Brown in the Wienermobile. (We could talk all about baking science.)

6. Last meal of your life, what would it be?

Joe's Lobster Salad Sandwiches on Brioche - shortbread cookies & Florentines for dessert.

7. Items you always have in your refrigerator:

Yogurt, eggs, buttermilk, cabbage.

8. Your most indispensable kitchen tool or appliance:

Plastic dough scrapers and parchment paper... and my kids love the melon baller - go figure.

​When he enrolled at the California Culinary Academy in San Francisco at the tender age of 17, Vincent Muraco was its youngest student ever. Since then, his culinary career has taken him to the Park Hyatts in that city and in LA, as well as Vix in Miami. Muraco is now Executive Chef at Zimzala, the restaurant within Huntington Beach's groovy new Shorebreak Hotel. In devising the Med menu, Muraco worked with James Beard award-winning chef Joyce Goldstein, and the results are impressive. Put it this way: Miami's loss is OC's gain. Here he talks knives, New York and never EVER eating fast food.


1.  Dish that you cook that most represents you.

Soup of the day.

2.  What was the last meal you had at home?

A barbecue by the pool. Churrasco, spicy prawns, asparagus and salad. And beer, of course.
 
3.  Your favorite restaurant (other than yours):
 
Fuego at the Hotel Maya, Long Beach.

4.  Fast food guilty pleasure:

Starbucks' caramel frappuccino. I don't eat fast food ever.

5.  Complete this sentence:  I would like to [verb] [Food Network Star] with [noun].
 
I would like to "challenge" the "Iron Chefs" with my "mad culinary skills."

6.  Last meal of your life, what would it be?
 
Pastrami sandwich and cream soda at Katz's deli in New York.
 
7.  Items you always have in your refrigerator:

Mostly beverages, since I am never home. Good beer, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio, San Pellegrino and my homemade ice tea.

8.  Your most indispensable kitchen tool or appliance:

My Japanese chef's knife (Masahiro) and my red pen.
 

​

For the rock groupie The Slidebar is Jeremy Popoff's restaurant/club/local worship temple for Fullerton's home-grown rock group, Lit.  For the foodie, the place is all about Walter Rowin and his cooking.  He's the man behind the bar's uncommonly good food; mac and cheese better than mom's, steaks to shame Morton's, and the Whammy Bar, a deep-fried chocolate cake monstrosity topped with ice cream. 

Herewith are Walter's answers to our survey, for which he intentionally waited until 3 a.m. to do.  "I find myself a bit delirious, and much more interesting (then)" he writes.  

1. Dish that you cook that most represents you.

Well, in my personal life, I would be a lot like risotto. I require constant attention and don't have much need for alone time. I'm kind of a pain in the ass, but the result you get for your effort is worth it. Professionally speaking, I'm more like Basmati rice. Just give me some heat and water and leave me alone and let me do my thing.

​This week we grilled Amar Santana, Executive Chef at Charlie Palmer at Bloomingdale's, South Coast Plaza.


As well as cooking, the Dominican Republic-born chef also teaches regular kitchen technique classes at the restaurant (for information, check the website).


Here, he talks about his love of pork and his desire to grease up a certain ubiquitous food "personality".

1. Dish that you cook that most represents you:
Crisp pork belly. I just LOVE pork.
 
2. What was the last meal you had at home?
Frozen Chinese dumplings with sriracha and Japanese mayo.

3. Your favorite restaurant (other than yours):
I have two, actually: Hamamori, in South Coast Plaza, for sushi; and for good Italian food, Cucina Alessá in Newport Beach.

4. Fast food guilty pleasure:
Double-Double Animal style from In-N-Out Burger, plus Animal Fries.

5. Complete this sentence: I would like to [verb] [Food Network star] with [noun].
I would like to shower Rachael Ray with EVOO!

6. Last meal of your life, what would it be?
My mom's roast pork with rice and black beans.

7. Items you always have in your refrigerator:
Frozen Chinese dumplings and Kewpie (Japanese mayo).

8. Your most indispensable kitchen tool or appliance:
My Nenox Japanese knife.

Dave Mau (left) and his brother Chris

Dave Mau is the chef and raconteur behind the Dinners with Dave event, a night of free music and free food, held every second and fourth Wednesday at Memphis at the Santora. When he's not doing that or cooking at the Vermilion Valley Resort in the High Sierras, he and Cody Requejo run the kitchen at The Retreat in Costa Mesa.

But when I approached Mau for this interview, he had some devastating news: His younger brother, Chris, had just died. "Anyone in the OC who has appreciated my (our) food over the years knows what an enormous culinary influence my brother was," Mau said.  "I mean it when I say he was a better cook than I will ever be."

Despite his loss, Mau still agreed to answer our set of frivolous questions. Here are his characteristically hilarious responses along with a photo of Mau together with his brother that he wanted to share.

1. Dish that you cook that most represents you.

Tri-Tip I guess. Not that mine is neccesarily the best but I've just made so goddam much of it over the years.

2. What was the last meal you had at home?

Right now I am reheating a sausage and pepper sandwich I made a few days ago. It's a good one too....

3. Your favorite restaurant (other than yours):

Currently, Honda Ya in Tustin. Tacos Jalisco in Orange is a very close second.

4. Fast food guilty pleasure:

Del Taco green bean burritos with french fries in them at three in the morning and a bottle of two-buck Chuck.

5. Complete this sentence: I would like to [verb] [Food Network Star] with [noun].

I would like to sodomize Guy Fieri with a white-hot can of Cheese-Whiz

6. Last meal of your life, what would it be?

Easy. Steaks over an open fire at Vermilion (my summer spot in the Sierra) with a side of plain al dente angel hair and some good company....and lots of beer.

7. Items you always have in your refrigerator:

Club soda, half and half, pickles, butter, feta, Sriracha. Shit usually doesn't last long in there.

8. Your most indispensable kitchen tool or appliance:

Does bacon fat count? If not, the sushi knife that is currently on loan from Cody.

Enthusiasm and authenticity are the bywords at Lucca, the Quail Hill café/deli/wine bar run by Cathy and her husband Elliott. The couple both trained in architecture before turning to the restaurant trade--and we're glad they made the move. We grilled Cathy with our usual set of questions.

1.  Dish that you cook that most represents you.

At home: Mostly pastas of all shapes and sizes.
At Lucca: Sometimes, when I can get them fresh, we do this incredible whole branzino (Mediterranean sea bass) roasted in a rock salt crust. We present the whole fish at the table and then filet it and drizzle it with herbed olive oil.


2.  What was the last meal you had at home?

 Penne pasta with my own Meyer lemons from the back yard, Israeli feta cheese, asparagus, leeks and parsley....and a dab of olive oil.
 
3.  Your favorite restaurant (other than yours):  

Kappo Honda in Fountain Valley--incredibly good Japanese small plates.

4.  Fast food guilty pleasure:

Ruby's cheeseburger with Swiss cheese and grilled onions, cooked medium rare. Or fish tacos from Rubio's.

5.  Complete this sentence:  I would like to [verb] [Food Network Star] with [noun].

I would like to thank Gordon Ramsay with all my heart for providing such entertaining kitchen fantasies... that none of us would ever get away with in real life. But alas, a girl's got to dream...

6.  Last meal of your life, what would it be?

My kitchen manager Araceli Leal's chicken tacos, rice and beans, and my Grandma Bottari's "Sunday Sauce".
 
7.  Items you always have in your refrigerator:

Bohemia beer, peanut butter, capers, Dijon mustard and this incredible truffle paste that I've been saving for a rainy day.

8.  Your most indispensable kitchen tool or appliance:
 
My blow torch from Ace hardware and our Rational Combi Ovens.
 

watermarcrestaurant.com

Marc Cohen's newest restaurant, Watermarc, is a flat out hit, even by Laguna Beach standards.  If you haven't heard of it, you will.  And if you haven't had his food, you need to.

Here are his answers for our list of 8 frivolous questions.

1. Dish that you cook that most represents you.

Risotto because it gives you the ability to express multiple flavors and textures.

2. What was the last meal you had at home?

Slow-cooked BBQ ribs.

3. Your favorite restaurant (other than yours):

Spain in Narragansett, Rhode Island.

4. Fast food guilty pleasure.

In-N-Out.

5. Complete this sentence:  I would like to [verb] [Food Network Star] with [noun]

...slather butter on Paula Dean.

6. Last meal of your life, what would it be?

Maryland blue crabs.

7. Items you always have in your refrigerator.

Old Bay seasoning, ginger and garlic.

8. Your most indispensible kitchen tool or appliance:

My favorite 10" chef knife. (I sleep with it...)

It's hard to believe that Costa Mesa's Pizzeria Ortica, co-founded by David Myers and Executive Chef Steve Samson, has only been open since January. An instant hit, despite being slightly off the South Coast Plaza beaten path, it's known for its stunning pastas, meats, fish and pizzas. Not to mention its outrageously good desserts. We caught up with Samson for a chat.

1. Dish that you cook that most represents you. 

That's an easy one...Tagliatelle Bolognese. My mom is from Bologna. I grew up eating my nonna's and my mom's version. It will always be on the menu.

2. What was the last meal you had at home?

A half-eaten two-day old pizza from the restaurant. It still tasted good.

3. Your favorite restaurant (other than yours):

Sushi Nozawa in Studio City. I have been going for almost 20 years.  Mr and Mrs Nozawa run a tight ship.  I also love Shin Sen Gumi in Gardena and Fountain Valley.  It's a lot of  fun and they have great yakitori.

4. Fast food guilty pleasure:

Tacos and tortas at El Gallo Giro in Santa Ana, washed down with an ice cold Jamaica. Que rico!

5. Complete this sentence:  I would like to [verb] [Food Network Star] with [noun]

I would like to baste Bobby Flay with Mario Batali's drippings.  Whatever that means.

6. Last meal of your life, what would it be? 

See my answer to no.1, but I'm not choosing between my nonna's and my mom's ragu'.

7. Items you always have in your refrigerator: 

Sriracha and Tecate Light.  What else do I need?

8. Your most indispensable kitchen tool or appliance:

Right now it's a perforated pizza placing peel. The perforations allow excess flour to sift through instead of burning on the bottom of the pizza. 

Courtesy of Marche Moderne

He is Florent Marneau, chef and proprietor of Marche Moderne, one of the best French restaurants in the county.  We are food bloggers with a few dumb questions that we've always wanted to know but were afraid to ask. 

What do you get when you mix?  You get what we hope is an off-the-cuff, quick, fun, entertaining, and marginally frivolous interview (that we hope to repeat with other O.C. food personalities) which goes something like this: