*Moved up, 'cause I hear people are reading this and talking. Did you know that if you Google "Lola Gaspar," this is the first post that shows up? Another strike against Lola--if ustedes had a website, this phenomenon probably would've never happened...

**Moved up YET AGAIN because people still keep leaving comments. So far, most commented post in Stick a Fork in It's young history...

***Originally published Dec. 15, 2008

I've been to many a restaurant opening in my day, and--even when allowing for opening-day jitters--one can usually tell the worth of a place in those first few days of service. The good ones inevitably prove to become classics--Old Vine Cafe, Onotria, and Veggie Grill come quickly to mind. Even if there were a couple of slip-ups here and there, something redeemed each place and its peers. Bad restaurants, on the other hand, tend to stay bad restaurants no matter how many tweaks the owners attempt after opening night. If you can't get something right the first time, it's telling of fundamental problems in the operations.

And this latter scenario, gentle readers, is where Lola Gaspar firmly sits in today.

I truly had high hopes for this downtown SanTana place, being that the guys behind Habana at the LAB in Costa Mesa were in charge of the menu. I guess the first warning sign of what was to come happened with the delays in the opening date. A voice message claimed Lola was to open December 5, seven days a week, from 10:30 a.m. until two in the morn. But the debut wouldn't happen until the 13th, a full week later. No es bueno.

It happens. But when milady and I stopped in last night, our waitress promptly informed us that not all the items on the menu were available. Uh, Lola people? Do not open a restaurant--even if it's a soft opening--if you're not ready to deliver. Restaurant Opening 101.

You can click here for pictures of the menu, which veers between Nuevo Latino platters and Mexican dishes. And this is where Lola Gaspar failed--badly.

The Laguna Beach Independent reports that David Wilhelm -- who quit the Culinary Adventures empire he built from the success of his Laguna Beach restaurant, Sorrento Grille -- will be back at Sorrento's helm. 

At the Irvine Spectrum, according to this post here on the OC Metblogs. Personally, I've become re-acquainted with the chain's terrific burgers, ever since I moved to Seal Beach and can easily walk to the one at the end of the Seal Beach Pier.....

*Updated, with new info on the bottom...
**Moved up, 'cause it's timely!

The colonization of downtown SanTana by Costa Mesan pioneering hipsters is complete. Both the Gypsy Den and Memphis have long successfully operated branches in the city's Artists Village, which always made us wonder why the other LAB stalwart, Habana, never set up shop in the most-Mexican city in America. That's about to change, as the owners of the Gypsy Den and Habana have teamed up to open Lola Gaspar in the space previously occupied by Pangea. We saw a copy of the menu (and will post it later once we convince our source to give it up instead of giving a mere peek), and it swings more toward Habana's Nuevo Latino menu than the Gypsy Den's hippy-dippy yummys--the entrees we remember were carne asada and Catalan flatbreads, and some other stuff. Another interesting, bold wrinkle about Lola Gaspar (who's apparently a Barcelona artist) is their claim that it will stay open seven days a week, until 2 a.m., in the hopes of becoming the Artists Village go-to place. The menu seemed interesting for the most part (but no prices yet), and we'll definitely offer a dispatch once the place opens (before the end of the year, according to sources). Just one quibble at this point: don't call your tacos "street tacos" when they're too gourmet for that moniker.

*UPDATE: I forgot to say where this restaurant will be! Address is 211 W. Second St.,
SanTana.  According to this guy, they're set to open ma~ana...

**UPDATE NUMBER DOS: The message on their phone number (listed in comments below) says it was opening on Dec. 5. Today's the 11th, and rumor has it they're opening on Saturday. Uh, don't make promises you can't keep...

On Tustin's Newport Blvd., there are already several Indian businesses. Masala Bowl, an Indian fast-food joint that has franchise aspirations, started here. India Sweets and Spices is across the street, offering cheap vegetarian lunches and groceries. And if you veer off Newport Blvd. into its tributary of El Camino Real, you'll find Laxmi Sweets & Spices, another Indian restaurant/grocery store hybrid.

Seven months ago, India SpiceMart opened on Newport Blvd. But because it's hidden behind a Carl's Jr., it's impossible to spot if you weren't actually looking for it -- which is why I didn't notice it until today.

Also today I spied another new place called Radhika Sweets and Spices, which is about to open next to Haveli. When it does, that will make at least four Indian grocers in this area alone. We're still far off from seeing another Pioneer Blvd. in Artesia (that's where Little India is), but I think it makes Tustin's Newport Blvd. even more interesting, no?

The Baja Fresh on Sunflower near Bristol is now a Mesa Grill and Barbeque. This makes (at least) the second Baja Fresh to be transformed. The first, on 17th St., made the switch earlier this year.

At both locations, expect Southwest pizzas, baby backs, the whole BBQ gamut, but also coconut shrimp.

Though I haven't tried it, some of the Chowhounds have, including our friend Wonginator and Jason Coulston, who is one of the people behind Hidden Kitchen. Here's their discussion on the original location.

But I know what you may still be wondering: There is no relation to the Bobby Flay's Mesa Grill.

I am not sure why they always seem to come in twos.

This week, both Ajisen Ramen and Greek Islands debuted.

Ajisen was already doing decent business at 4 P.M. yesterday,  attracting a few looky-loos like myself. Greek Islands, on the other hand, was not.

It remains to be seen how Greek food will be received by the same crowd that still converge upon 85 Degrees C in droves, but their menu looks to be a much needed change of pace for the Asian-leaning plaza.

Besides that, Irvine needs a good place for falafel, which Greek Islands has on its roster.

Although I haven't tried Ajisen, their prices worry me. None of their ramen bowls retail below $7.50. Most hover at $8.50 or $9.75.

You can still get a medium bowl at Santoka -- the revered favorite around these parts -- for about $6.99 (last time I checked).  But during times like these, when people are more likely to resort to Nissin's Cup Noodles or Maruchan's Instant Lunch for their ramen fix (can't beat its 30-cents-per cup), today's going rate for restaurant ramen will be tough to swallow for most.

Of course, Ajisen's broth won't be loaded with MSG and their veggies won't be freeze-dried.

Also, they're open until 10 PM most nights, and 11 PM on the weekends, which are optimal noodle slurping hours. 

I have scanned and made Ajisen's menu available for you to peruse in case you're already more than halfway into your Costco-sized pallet of instant ramen and craving a proper bowl:

CLICK HERE FOR PAGE 1.

CLICK HERE FOR PAGE 2. 

On word that Carm's Coneys shuttered and Opah teetering on the brink, here's a bit of good news -- an update on the Beard Papa's post from last week:

Our tipster, NP, writes in that Beard Papa's in MainPlace has reopened, saved from oblivion by new owners.

He writes:

"What an odd turn of events! As of this morning (Nov 21st 2008) the Main Place Beard Papa's is open again."

"From talking to the employees they did shut down and it was to be a permanent closure however they have a new owner who reopened this week"

"So let's hope they stay open this time."

Back in the early nineties, the Alberto's empire stretched far and wide, a success story that began in San Diego, built upon hefty burritos filled with nothing but carne asada steak and guacamole. Then something happened. Rumor was that in-fighting fractured the cohesion.

Soon some Alberto's turned rogue. I remember the one I'd been going to, in La Habra, became a Molcasalsa. Others redubbed itself with a few extra letters or a few less. Albertito's, Alerto's, Rigoberto's, Alberta's, and that's just the one's I remember off the top of my head. Some weren't even affliated with the original. But if the name sounded similar or had a "-Berto's" suffix, then you can bet they made that same burrito.

A few of the knockoffs and rogue stores have actually evolved to become popular local staples. I'm an Alerto's fan myself.

Now, in what used to be another Mexican restaurant (that I can't remember the name of), Alberto's returns to Santa Ana at the corner of Edinger and Grand. This ups the number of Alberto's in OC to about five (at my last count). And yes, this one's got that carne asada burrito, too.

I reported on this before, but this is the week that Veggie Grill's Irvine Spectrum location is opening. More specifically, this Friday, November 21st. They had a preview night dinner that I couldn't attend (darned pesky day job!), but our buddy DanGarion of Eat in OC did!

To see what he saw and ATE for free, click HERE.

Yet another restaurant slips into history while another begins to write its own. Ferdussi Taste of Persia -- the Santa Ana institution that proudly wore its Best of OC badge from OC Weekly on its door -- closed a few months ago. Now open in its place, is a new Mexican place called La Terraza.

I haven't tried La Terraza, but I will miss Ferdussi.

One interesting tidbit: The OC Weekly sticker is still there.

Code has opened. If you remember, this is the place that took over Fury in Newport Beach.

Done by the people behind Tentation, Ten Asian Bistro, Mosun G, and others, the interior looks as impressive as its exterior; which, by the way, seems like it's cribbed from Charlie Palmer's 405-facing facade. At night, both look like a giant, back-lit ice cube.

And from a first glance at the menu, Code serves crudo, seemingly responding to the void created when Blanca's Nick Weber left, taking OC's first and only crudo bar with him. Though most of the crudo plays second fiddle to the sashimi, one sounds very promising:

Hamachi Tradito
Organic soy, meyer lemon, micro greens, edible flowers, yuzu gelee

Let's hope the dish and the rest of the restaurant lives up that promise.

If you've tried Code, please chime in and dish on the dishes.

I can't remember the last time a hole-in-the-wall garnered as much opening buzz as Empanada's Place, a Los Angeles-area institution that just opened a branch in Costa Mesa. Those crazy Yelp kids love it, and more reputable sources raved about it to me as well. All of those folks are smoking the chimichurri a bit much--and more on that chimichurri in a bit.

Fact is, few restaurants have disappointed me more than Empanada's Place. I always look forward to trying a non-Mexican Latino place in Orange County, and I was excited when I visited this past Saturday afternoon. The tiny, gorgeous restaurant hosted Argentine families, gabachos waiting for a to-go order, Mexicans grabbing a bite before work: a perfect hole-in-the-wall mix. I was a bit disappointed that their menu consists solely of empanadas and sandwiches, but there would be no complaints if the restaurant could pull them off.

Out came an empanada--a Tucumama, a long, fat, fried pastry of chopped beef and spices, one of 18 empanadas available. It was good enough and filling, but one empanada will leave you wanting more--and while buying one at $3 is fine, you're better off eating somewhere else than forking over six bucks and change for an empanada dinner. And I say this as an empanada nut.

But even if the empanadas were more reasonably priced, I cannot in good conscience recommend a place that charges $10 for a sandwich. $10! Granted, the grilled steak inside the glorified sub is worthy of the pampas, but $10! Worse, the only garnish Empanada's Place's cooks added was mayo. Blecch. Nothing good in history has come out of mayo. Go get a bánh mì at Lee's for two bucks and change.

The mayo sandwich wasn't even the worst sin. Remember the aforementioned chimichurri? It's a condiment of garlic, olive oil, parsley, and other herbs, a spread as essential to Argentine kitchens as Tapatío is for wabs. Every Argentine restaurant I've ever visited offers the condiment gratis except this one. Where the hell does Empanada's Place come off with the gall to charge $2.99 for four ounces of the stuff? It's an insult to eaters everywhere and Argentines in particular. Do yourselves a favor: avoid Empanada's Place and trek to Garden Grove, where Regina's Restaurant needs your business. This chain? It has already lassoed up enough dopes.

Empanada's Place, 3011 Harbor Blvd., Costa Mesa, (714) 825-0100. Remember: don't go.

According to a story in the Long Beach Press-Telegram, Sophy's -- the popular Cambodian restaurant on Long Beach's Anaheim street -- is moving to a new location not because they wanted to, but because their landlord refused to renew the lease.

So they upped and got a new lease at a better location, with more parking about six or seven blocks away.

Friday, October 31st was their last night at their old place, and simultaneously the first one at their new place at 3240 E. Pacific Coast Highway.

Just made it under the wire for Oktoberfest. Total Wine, the alkie's Costco (well, that's not an apt methapor since Costco has booze too doesn't it?), has opened in at the Tustin Marketplace (next to Best Buy) in what used to be a furniture store. Now that last part should give you an idea of its enormity. Count 'em: that's 20,000 square feet of wine, spirits, and beer.

In fact, their motto is this:

8,000 wines. 2,000 spirits. 1,000 beers.

To clarify, that's 8,000 different kinds of wines. 2,000 different kinds of spirits. 1,000 different kinds of beers. Or as it's otherwise known in fraternities: "a good weekend".

Although the store has been open since the 16th, today at 6 P.M., the mayor of Tustin will be there to cut the ribbon.

Have you noticed something lately? Izakayas -- the Japanese equivalent to the gastro-pub, tapas house, and neighborhood bar all wrapped up into one -- are popping up all over O.C.

So many izakayas have opened lately, in fact, that the trend is obvious: Izakaya is the new sushi.

Last year, Takashi Abe of Bluefin fame debuted his Izakaya Zero in Huntington Beach. Then the Wasa Sushi people introduced their Izakaya Wasa at the Irvine Spectrum. And a mere two blocks away from Honda Ya -- arguably the grand daddy of them all -- Oki Doki opened up its own izakaya in the shell of another Japanese restaurant.

Now another there is another new one in Tustin called Haru Izakaya (at 526 1st St.). Someone tipped me off that it just opened a few weeks ago, occupying a space that used to be a sushi joint (which I can't recall the name of).

And although the name harkens Haru Ulala in L.A. (another acclaimed izakaya), I do not think there is a connection. So far I haven't tried it, but when I looked into its windows while it wasn't yet open for the evening, I saw something at the counter that already earns the place some points.

When it rains it pours. Last Friday saw at least three stores opening at Diamond Jamboree Center. On the weekend, it was H-Mart, -- the anchor (and only) supermarket -- and Guppy Tea House. Either that or they both just won the Kentucky Derby. There were wreaths of flowers, balloons, the works.

The parking lot was a mess, as we all expected, but there was at least a concerted effort to keep it under control. Those entering the complex through Millikan Ave. side were directed by uniformed employees to drive around the back of the H-Mart and out the other side -- because nothing puts a damper on a grand opening celebration than when your customers get run-down by cars.

For about a few weeks in 2006, Irvine had its own outpost of BCD Tofu House, part of the empire built on boiling cauldrons of Korean soft tofu soup called sundubu jjigae. Then, like the Red October, there was a defection. BCD became Koba Tofu Grill (if there's any two words that sound weird together it's "tofu" and "grill"), and Irvine was BCD-less...until now, with the new BCD at Diamond Jamboree.

It opened yesterday, with a balloon arch and what looked like red carpet. But that's just part of the Korean invasion. BBQ Chicken -- which is actually known for its fried chicken cooked in olive oil -- is also open for business, as is Chae Bahn next to it.

However, it seems that a Taiwanese bakery has got all the Koreans eateries beat. 85°C Bakery Café, which also had its grand debut yesterday, had a line out that snaked out the door and around the corner.

Me, I'm still looking forward to Capital Seafood.

A week late in posting, but better late than never: Orange Coast College's Captain's Table, the restaurant that functions as a lab and training class for the school's culinary students, is now open for the Fall Semester. Actually, their inaugural lunch was last week.

I've been to a few of these in the past and it's always been fun (if only because you're really rooting for these kids to do well). And although some of the themes are better than others (the French lesson theme was much better than their Japanese one), the food is always a bargain for the quality.

This year, they're changing things up. The focus will be on American regional cooking and the meals will be served family style and not individually plated.

But it still occurs every Thursday, though there is now only one seating: at noon. The cost is $12. But as always, the food will be cooked and served by the students themselves.

Their reservations book gets filled up quickly, so call ahead.

Here's their full schedule.

AMERICAN REGIONAL CUISINE
FALL 2008

Thursday, 12 noon, one seating only
$12 (includes tax)
Doors open at 11:45 a.m.

September 18 - Mid Atlantic
September 25 - Southern States
October 2 - Florida
October 9 - Cajun-Creole
October 16 - Great Lakes & Midwest
October 23 - Great Plains & Rocky Mtns
October 30 - Texas
November 6 - Southwest
November 13 - Pacific Northwest
November 20 - Hawaii
November 27 - CLOSED – Thanksgiving
December 4 - California

We will not be serving on December 11th.
Thank you for another great semester!

For Reservations call 714-432-5835 x7
Menu subject to change without notice

Psst.

I got a tip about a clandestine and secret restaurant from a reader named Steve.

Appropriately enough it's called "The Hidden Kitchen" -- a project by two local couples. One pair (Jeff Dobkin and Julie Thompson-Dobkin) are the owners of Thompkin Cellars. Their partners are Jason Coulston and his wife Holly. Mr. Coulston is their chef, but people on Chowhound's L.A./O.C. bulletin board might recognize Mr. Coulston as one of their own.

Steve told me that the group was "looking for a restaurant space on the westside of Costa Mesa for a while now, couldn't find one and so ended up doing this "pop-up" version of a restaurant."

My informant goes on to report that he was there on opening night, last Thursday, September 11th, with a party of six.

"Most of us ordered the sea bass, one person had the ribs. Apparently the ribs are a specialty....they looked great and the fish was a hit. For starters I had the charcuterie plate and most others had the heirloom tomato salad. All was delicious. Dessert offered was a choice between pot de crème or a cheese plate with house jam and figs, YUM."

Here's the lowdown, written by the brains themselves.

The Hidden Kitchen is located at 750 St Clair in Costa Mesa (behind The Camp) and will be open for dinner on Thursdays and Fridays initially with Saturdays to follow shortly thereafter. Dinner service will start at 6:00 and the last diners will be seated at 9:00.

We will be taking over our friend Jack Flynn's "Rooster Cafe" at night and converting it into a casual, "Califrench" bistro. Jason Coulston will be our chef and partner, as will his wife Holly. Julie and I will run the front of the house.

The restaurant will feature a market driven menu with 2-3 apps, 2 entrees, a dessert and a cheese service. The menu will change every 2-3 weeks. There will be a set price of $35 per person for 3 courses.

The wine list will consist of a limited number of offbeat, high quality wines, all priced at under $45 and offered by the full and half bottle, as well as by the glass. Corkage will be $15 per bottle and Reidel stemware will be provided.

Call 714-662-5808 for reservations.

Seating is limited to about 26 people and we will be able accommodate special events.

Tokyo Table, the first restaurant of many at the new Diamond Jamboree in Irvine, will have its grand opening tomorrow, Wednesday, September 17, at 5 P.M.

The restaurant's already got two outlets in L.A. County (Beverly Hills and Arcadia).

Other than the usual roster of rolls, teriyaki and tempura, this is a Japanese restaurant that looks like it wants to do EVERYTHING. The menu is as voluminous as those at Jerry's Deli -- but hopefully, better with the execution.

A few things on it caught my eye. Sushi Pizza is described to have "baked sushi rice with salmon, scallops, crabmeat and onion, cut into bite-sized pieces and topped with sliced Jalapeno". The menu has a picture of it being served on a wooden pizza paddle, though the thing looks like what a Little Caesars pizza cook would slap together when given sushi ingredients.

Then there's the ishiyaki section of the menu, where dishes are "served on sizzling stone bowls and plates heated to at least 500 degree Fahrenheit". Along with potential third degree burns, you'll be able to enjoy sizzling garlic tuna (pictured) and "sukiyaki bibimbap rice".

But the one thing I'm looking forward to is their homemade tofu. It will be served simply, in a basket with a garnish of green onion, sea salt, nori and soy dashi broth. If the price on the online menu is correct ($6.95), it will be outrageously expensive (for tofu), but hopefully, also outrageously good.

UPDATE: I've been informed that from Wed., Sept. 17th through Fri., Sept. 19th, anyone who dines at Tokyo Table will receive a gift certificate for 100% of your total check to use on a future visit.

Click HERE for details.

A new ice cream shop from New Zealand opened its first U.S. store at the Stadium Promenade in Orange. Appropriately, it's called New Zealand Natural Ice Cream. And though the ice cream may be made from "fresh dairy cream from cows that feed on the green unpolluted pastures of New Zealand", its press release couldn't have sounded more artificial.

It reads like a celebutant-nudging, hype-craving, Hollywood-name-dropping act of desperation.

Judge for yourself:

"New Zealand Natural ice cream has sponsored Global Green’s Pre-Oscar Event, Lauren Conrad’s fashion show after party event, and premiere parties for many films such as Sony’s STEP BROTHERS and PINEAPPLE EXPRESS and Warner Bros.’ GET SMART. The brand was Charlize Theron’s ice cream of choice during the shoot of Columbia Picture’s HANCOCK in which a scene is shot of Theron eating the ice cream! Celebrity fans of New Zealand Natural ice cream include Will Ferrell, Salma Hayek, Will Smith, and many more. Adrian Grenier is quite a fan that he even has a New Zealand Natural mini freezer poolside at his house always fully stocked wit[sic] his favorite flavors."

I'll probably try the ice cream since I love New Zealand and I love ice cream, but let this be a lesson for future PR pushers: There's no faster way to turn off true foodies from your product than to name-drop celebrities whose opinion on food we care nothing about.