Orange County Blog

Pardon this unasimmilated Mexican, but what is the great gabacho aversion to meatloaf? I've enjoyed it the dozen or so times I've tasted the meat--not my favorite carnal creation, but also no headcheese (another much-maligned butcher offering). I thought about this on Saturday as I chomped down on a meatloaf sandwich at Memphis at the Santora in SanTana.

After years of consistently serving stellar Southern fare under the watchful eye of head chef/owner Diego Velasco, this Orange County institution is beginning to experiment in great ways. Every other Wednesday night brings Dinner with Dave, where culinary cabrón Dave Mau cooks Mexican-themed meals (who knew he was part-wab?) and brings in bands. A new, permanent Wednesday addition is barbecue. Ocassional specials include buffalo burgers (needs more gorgonzaloa) and venison burgers, along with the extraordinary fried-chicken sandwich. And this past weekend saw the introduction of a late-night menu; after the regular kitchen closes at 10 p.m., out comes a limited menu of big snacks (gumbo, fried chicken, quesadillas, pulled pork sliders) costing $5 each.

The meatloaf sandwich was like butter, so sweet and moist the slab was. It featured the slightest tang, but isn't that what makes a meatloaf, that wonderful combination of offal and other discarded delights?

Memphis at the Santora, 201 N. Broadway, Santa Ana, (714) 564-1064; www.memphiscafe.com.