News Archives

Avanti Cafe International Tuesday Menu for January

Thumbnail image for avanti.jpgMy continued favorite food happening is 2008 OC Weekly Best Restaurant Avanti Cafe's International Tuesdays, where $11.50 gets you a three-course meal of cuisines rare to these parts. This month's theme: regional cuisines of India, as follows. Note "Veronica" and "Bart" are the junior chefs at Avanti to owners Mark Cleveland and Tanya Fuqua in name only; they can outcook most any chef in Orange County:

Brahmin Veronica's PUNJAB
Tuesday, January 6
Dal Maharini - Punjab lentil soup
Sabzi Pulao - Vegetables & rice
w/ ginger chili

Mango Lassi - Mango yogurt drink

Swami Bart's BENGAL
Tuesday, January 13
Cholar Dal - Bengali lentil soup
Khatte Baigan Bhaji - Sweet & sour     eggplant
Narkol Nadu - Coconut cardamon drink


Maharincess Veronica's GOA
Tuesday, January 20
Tomato Coconut Soup
Cauliflower Pulao - Cauliflower stew w/ brown rice
Moira - Plantain croquettes


Yogi Bart's SOUTH INDIA
Tuesday, January 27
Dal Phokali - South Indian lentil soup
Vangi Batata Bahaji - Eggplant & potatoes w/ brown rice
Indian Brown Rice Pudding


I will be at each, although at different times due to my KPFK-FM 90.7 show at 4 p.m. every Tuesday. Find me at Avanti on Tuesday, and your international courses are on me!

Avanti Cafe, 259 E. 17th St., Costa Mesa, (949) 548-2224; www.avantinatural.com

The Laughable 2009 Zagat Orange County Guide

zagat.jpgOn one hand, it's great that Zagat Survey thinks so highly enough of Orange County that it should publish a naranja-only version of its insanely popular guides. On the other hand, how serious can you take a dining book that recommends Rainforest Cafe as a place to go?!

Such is the double-edged sword of Zagat, the original Yelp! and Chowhound but one showing its years and readership in its O.C. guide. Whereas Yelpers care for the buzz and nepotism, while Chowhounds love the dives, Zagateers in Orange County obsess over the safe. Out of 434 restaurants listed, only a handful are hole-in-the-wall restaurants, where the county's true treasures sit. Zagat OC is the type of publication that recommends Inka Grill for Peruvian instead of Nory's, Brodard Chateau instead of the original Brodard, includes more fondue places (two) than true Middle Eastern spots (just Zankou's, and that's classified under "Mediterranean"), doesn't include a single taquería and even has a category for Asian. At least they didn't classify Mexican cuisine as "Spanish."

There are good choices in the booklet--Old Vine Cafe and Taleo and Gabbi's and quite a few others, but save the six bucks this book costs and just continue reading this publication, which costs you only a couple of cheap ads and gratuitous plugs.

L.A. Times: Chinese Uproar Over Eating Cats

images-4.jpegAccording to the L.A. Times, China's Guangzhou, formerly known as Canton, is currently the scene of protest and outrage among the Chinese over the use of cats as food. 

Barbara Demick's fascinating story chronicles what happens when the Cantonese -- renowned for their indiscriminating palates -- point their chopsticks at Fluffy. 

She writes, "But now fellow Chinese are drawing the line. Eating cat, they say -- that is just too disgusting." 

Along with other quotable sections, my favorite part of the story is this little gem, which describes one of the more popular dishes: 

"Cat meat is good for women. You can eat it in the summer or winter. It is very light. Men usually prefer dog. It is like yin and yang. Cat is yin and dog is yang," said customer Jiang Changlin, who works for the local government. 

He recommended that visitors try one of Guangdong's most famous recipes, "dragon fighting tiger," a dish made with both snake and cat, its distinctiveness coming from the competing power of the ingredients.

L.A. Times: La Brea Bakery's Nancy Silverton's Savings Wiped Out by Madoff

The L.A. Times reports that Nancy Silverton, famed founder of L.A.'s Mozza and La Brea Bakery (now also at Macy's Signature Kitchen at South Coast Plaza, along with Downtown Disney) had her savings wiped out in the Bernard Madoff Ponzi scheme.

Read it HERE.

FDA Wags Finger at Diet Coke's Vitamin Claims

diet_coke_plus.jpgThe FDA has issues with Coca Cola's new Diet Coke Plus.  It sent the company a letter earlier this month about the drink, which Coke purports to have a "refreshing taste...AND several essential nutrients" with "each 8 fl. oz. serving of Diet Coke Plus provid(ing) 15% of your RDI for niacin and vitamins B6 and B12, and 10% for zinc and magnesium".

So what do the feds have a problem with?  It's the word "plus", believe it or not. 

The FDA says that the drink fails to meet the standard for the word. Their letter to Coke goes on to say that the new drink is "misbranded ... because the product makes a nutrient content claim but does not meet the criteria to make the claim."

As an avowed hater of all things Diet drink (the aftertaste makes my mouth want shrivel up and die), my problem is not with the word "plus" (which I had no idea needed to be quantifiable), it's with their claim that it has a "refreshing taste".  Blech. 

And they're going to put vitamins in it?!  I'll take water, thank you. 

In-N-Out vs. In & Out; Mickey D's vs. Nicky D's

Surely, you've heard this story about a Coney Island restaurant drawing the ire of the McDonald's corporation for calling itself Nicky D's? 

If you haven't watched the CNN video (which I include here), you might think that it's just a big bad corporation picking on the little guy. But once you do, it's actually not like that. In fact, this one's a case of the little guy thumbing their nose at the big bad corporation. 

The way the owner of Nicky D's dismisses how his logo is actually just a cut-off McDonald's "M" is priceless. 

Why am I rehashing this story, which happened earlier this month? Well, this week there's another too-similar case involving Irvine-based In-N-Out suing an Arizona mom-and-pop from calling itself "In & Out". 

This one seems pretty cut and dry. Emphasis on dry (Not as hilarious as the Nicky D's story). Read about it HERE

So, before we go any further: Are there any entrepreneurs out there reading this planning to open a Carlos Jr. or a Wendi's? Perhaps a Jacque-in-the-Box?

KFC Workers Use Sink to Bathe

images-3.jpegI don't know where to start with this story I saw in the USA Today

I think it's best to just give you the headline.  It goes like this: "More fast food workers think it's a good idea to bathe in kitchen sink".

"MORE fast food workers"?  Was this a trend people were already aware of?  It gets even more hilarious from there.

The article goes on to describe what three female KFC workers did one night when they were particularly randy and in need of a bubble bath.  And of course, they took pictures of themselves doing it and posted the photos on their MySpace page, whereupon it was discovered by a local newscast, which then did a video where they interviewed customers of that particular KFC, asking them probing questions like "So what do you think of this?"

I nearly peed my pants.

But I'm left wondering: What does KFC need a sink for?  Their potatoes are instant, their corn is from frozen, and they give you those plastic sporks as utensils.

And oh, and if any of you industrious Web surfers actually locates the MySpace page in question, be sure to share with the rest of the class.

Sorrento Grille Liberated; Wilhelm Back at its Helm

images-2.jpegThe Laguna Beach Independent reports that David Wilhelm -- who quit the Culinary Adventures empire he built from the success of his Laguna Beach restaurant, Sorrento Grille -- will be back at Sorrento's helm. 

This time, he'll be working for its new owners: his old landlords, Laguna Beach residents Diane and Philo Smith.  The couple has bought Sorrento Grille, liberating it from Culinary Adventures.

The relaunched restaurant will get Wilhelm's full attention as its sole "chef-operator" and focus on "smaller portion offerings and a greater emphasis on affordable wine, rather than pushing martinis".

It will also eschew table linens for bare wood tabletops.

To read the whole article, which also mentions other Laguna Beach restaurant news, CLICK HERE.

Spying Charlie Palmer's & Complaining About Crustacean

charlie_palmer.jpgI don't shop at Bloomingdale's, but I like going through its front entrance to get to the mall. Why? In the store's entryway, you can see into Charlie Palmer's kitchen through this eye-slit of a peep-hole. From it, you can spy all the cooking action and the Top Chef dreamers doing it, and that's exactly what most of these bright-eyed kids look like: Marcels and Hungs.

It's fun to watch what goes on in there, even if it does get a bit boring without the QuickFire Challenges.

Next to Charlie Palmer's, across the same hallway, Crustacean is slated to open in the spring. This makes no sense to me. But I suppose as long as there are people who are willing and able to drop coin on Bloomingdales' overpriced wares, there will be customers who will do the same on Crustacean's overpriced Vietnamese food -- all the while oblivious that Little Saigon lies just a few exits away on the 405.

Normally, I'd save my ire until I try a place, but about eight years ago I had the displeasure of eating at the Beverly Hills location -- an experience that left me about $80 poorer and for what? Bo luc lac and their "famous" garlic noodles, which tasted like gussied up store bought ramen.

And since we looked like Orange County bumpkin with no cash in the bank (which was not entirely untrue) you can guess how well we were treated.

OC Supper Club Wants You To Join Their Dinner

algrt.jpgI still don't know all the ins and outs of Facebook, but I do know that I belong to a group called the Orange County Supper Club (and something called "Lou Dobbs Is An Ignorant, Xenophobic Jack-ass!," but I digress). From their website:

The OCSC was created to encourage Orange County couples and friends to get together once a month for some good eats and a whole lot of fun. Each month we will chose a different location by suggestions and then a final vote. Come join us.

Next dinner is scheduled for December 20, and the current leader by a large margin is Christakis Greek Cuisine in Tustin--a fine choice. I won't be there, alas, being I have to attend a cousin's quinceañera and a Persian buffet afterwards, but go make some friends, you Internet wackos!

Thai Food: Endangered

Thai Nakorn. Photo courtesy Edwin Goei. Reuters had an enlightening article today about how in Thailand, authentic Thai food is endangered because of "changing tastes wrought by globalization." And most lamentably "culinary shortcuts (that) have ended up changing Thai flavors, and placing some dishes in danger of extinction altogether." 

The story goes on to say that "Convenience and cost are two reasons why Thai food is changing, spurring many locals to bemoan what they think of as the death of their renowned local cuisine." 

"They say the balance of sweet, salty, bitter, sour and spicy flavors meant to underpin Thai dishes has been replaced by something saltier and a lot sweeter than it should be". 

So there you go: A glimpse into a future where all foods are Taco Bell (yes, that's from Demolition Man, the only watchable movie Stallone ever made after Rocky and Rambo). 

Not that South Park has anything to do with this trend, but the title of the article "Mee Krob Anyone?" also reminded me of Cartman's out-of-the-blue and hilarious monologue on the sticky sweet Thai noodle appetizer.  Enjoy it below!

CLICK HERE FOR CARTMAN!!

Shooby Dooby, It's a New Ruby's

rubys-diner[1].jpgAt the Irvine Spectrum, according to this post here on the OC Metblogs. Personally, I've become re-acquainted with the chain's terrific burgers, ever since I moved to Seal Beach and can easily walk to the one at the end of the Seal Beach Pier.....


Rendezvous To Be Replaced By New Steakhouse

images.jpegThe revolving door of eateries continues.  According to the Capistrano Dispatch, the space that the recently departed Rendezvous occupied in San Juan Capistrano's train depot is being developed by the people behind Gemmell's of Dana Point.

In it's place, come mid-January, will be a steakhouse called "The Vintage Steakhouse".

OC Register's Food Section Run by Morons

gluttonista.jpgJust a couple of years ago, the Orange County Register's food section was amongst the best in the country--recipes, features, their own wine columnist in longtime Reg investigative reporter Chris Knap, and two food reviews per week: one on Thursday by the execrable Elizabeth Evans, and another one on Friday by the super-talented Tenny Tatusian. Tatusian would also throw in a mini-review in the paper's standalone food-section, if I remember correctly.

Things got even better in late 2005, when the county's paper of record began their food blog--originally called Food Frenzy, but then switched to Gluttonista when reporter Katherine Nguyen began covering food. Other writers joined in the mix--Cynthia Furey, and the occasional food review by a regular Register reporter (the two I remember contributing most were Greg Hardesty and Marla Jo Fisher).

Flash-forward three years. The standalone food section is no more. The second review on Fridays is gone, as is the once-substantial dining guide. Knap's column went adios, Tatusian left long ago, and Nguyen--a foodie of the highest caliber, one whose friendly personality burst forth in every review and whose grin was being enticed in Gluttonista's banner--has just left the Register. Writer Niyaz Pirani promises better things to come, and let's hope that happens, but we don't have much faith in a paper that has let so much talent leave what was once a great section.

If you think I'm going to dance on the grave of a competitor, you're wrong. I vaguely knew Nguyen--I never said hi to her, but ran into her at some events from time to time--and I always heard she was a class act. I know she's obsessed with hole-in-the-walls, and anyone who is can depend on goodwill from me. Hopefully, another publication is smart enough to pick her up and let the Register slide further into oblivion...speaking of which, Kat: wanna blog for us?

Garden Grove's Korean District In New Cooking Show on KOCE

TOK.jpgBefore The Food Network came along , there was Martin Yan, Jacques Pepin, Tommy Tang, Jeff Smith (a.k.a. The Frugal Gourmet) and of course, Julia Child. 

As a kid, I watched their shows every Saturday morning on PBS's KCET 28 when other kids watched cartoons.  I'd stare with rapt amusement at how Martin Yan's cleavers seem to move at a blur; how Julia Child turned raw ingredients into meals like it was magic.

None of today's Food Network "stars" are fit to carry their sauce pans*.  But unfortunately, Rachael Ray and company have got the viewership and all the attention.  PBS's shows have become a mere blip, if there was even a radar on it anymore.  

So now, instead of Jacques and Julia teaching us the wonders of French cuisine, we get cooking shows that are actually about how to AVOID cooking (Sandra Lee's is the most egregious example).  If it's not that, then it's either the umpteenth special on BBQ, hot dogs, or burgers.  Other cuisines, and especially ethnic foods have been relegated to Bourdain and Zimmern's travel shows on the Travel Channel (both which I enjoy).

That still leaves out the ethnic cooking shows.  

Enter a new program called "Taste of Korea" -- a cooking show that not only features Korean food, it's locally produced and will feature our very own Korean District in Garden Grove as a backdrop.

Catch it on KOCE 50 starting next week (see schedule below).  Hopefully they'll inspire the next generation of food geeks!

KOCE-OC  Mon, 12/01/2008 10:30:00    
KOCE-OC  Tue, 12/02/2008 11:00:00    
KOCE-OC  Wed, 12/03/2008 03:30:00   
KOCE-OC  Wed, 12/03/2008 01:00:00   
KOCE-OC  Fri, 12/05/2008 20:00:00 

KOCE-OC  Fri, 12/05/2008 15:30:00  
KOCE-OC  Sat, 12/06/2008 10:30:00    
KOCE-OC  Sat, 12/06/2008 03:00:00    
KOCE-OC  Sun, 12/07/2008 20:00:00  
KOCE-OC  Sun, 12/07/2008 02:30:00


*For the record:  Alton Brown is still a God, the only exception to the rule.

Jonathan Gold, His Brother and Whale Meat

Here's an interesting story by the LA Times about our sister paper's venerated and Pulitzer Prize-winning food critic, his meal of whale on a trip to South Korea, and what his brother Mark, a marine scientist and president of Heal the Bay thinks about it.

Daily Grill Execs to Take 10% Pay Cut

Here's somewhat encouraging news in discouraging times. Although "at least eight people were laid off this year from the company's office in Woodland Hills", according to an article in the LA Times, about a dozen Daily Grill executives -- whose annual salaries range from $100,000 to $350,000 -- are going to take a 10% pay cut, effective immediately, instead of resorting to more lay-offs.

Proposition 2 Opponents Use Pete Wilson Card for Their Tricks

Amazingly, both parties have ignored Mexicans in this election. So leave it to the animal-abusing geniuses behind the No on Proposition 2 campaign (y'know, that nefarious measure that would force farmers to treat their animals humanely) to conjure up the spectre of the Reconquista in this ominous ad. Dig the long lines!

And it's not the first time Prop. 2 opponents have bagged on Mexico:

Forbes DOESN'T Mention O.C. as an Up-And-Coming Food Capital

forbes.jpgI can't say I'm surprised. Besides, list like these are subjective, as all lists are. But this one, is especially so. A panel of four, consisting of "Food & Wine Restaurant Editor Kate Krader; Anya Fernald, executive director of Slow Food Nation; and Erik Wolf, president of the International Culinary and Tourism Association", did the picking.

But I can't say that I wasn't slightly disappointed that O.C. didn't even get a mention for all the wonderful ethnic foods we have. Doesn't Little Saigon, Little Seoul, all of Santa Ana, and Little Gaza count for something?

Sure, we could do a little better on the fine dining front, but we've still got our gems. Bluefin? Marche Moderne? You can't tell me they're not worthy.

Though I am intrigued on what the article has to say about the microbrewery scene San Diego, surely we're just as good as Tucson!

Or perhaps I'm reading it all wrong. The list says "Up-And-Coming". Perhaps being excluded means that we've already ARRIVED!

To read the article for yourselves, click HERE.

Melamine Found in Edible Sex Accessories

Melamine-tainted baby formula: tragic and scary.

Melamine-tainted pet food: sad.

Now a New York Times story reports that melamine has also been detected in edible adult sex accessories sold in England. It's still disturbing, of course, but somehow, this time, you can't help but chuckle a little bit -- if only because this might just be the first time the phrase "edible sex accessories" has ever appeared on the pages of The New York Times.

The short article goes on to reassure people who have eaten (ahem) from the Chinese-made strawberry "body pens" and erotic chocolate lotion that the levels of melamine discovered were low.

But it just goes to show that nothing, and I do mean nothing, is sacred.

Newport Beach Looking to Ban Styrofoam Products

The Newport Beach City Council will vote today on an ordinance to ban Sytrofoam products. Initially proposed by students of Newport Harbor High School, the citywide ban would curb the use of those to-go containers we are all too familiar with, but according to The Daily Pilot, it includes a hardship clause that "exempts restaurants if eliminating Styrofoam products from their businesses would cause owners undue economic hardship and no reasonable alternative can be found."

Similar ordinances are already in effect in Laguna Hills.

Update Oct. 15: The Newport Beach City Council was unanimous in banning Styrofoam. Final approval is expected to happen Oct. 28th. If it passes this final step, the ban will begin April 29th of next year.

Crudo Out; "Coastal Mexican" In at Blanca in Newport Beach

blanca.jpgA few months ago, Orange County had its first crudo bar in Blanca; and now, not so much. There was already signs of trouble back in July when repo men were sent to rip out equipment from its kitchens as Newport Beach police stood guard. Blanca's suppliers said the restaurant wasn't paying their bills.

Then there was word that the chef left because they were allegedly not paying him either. Now the restaurant is under new management, and most importantly, has changed over to serving "Coastal Mexican". The closest you'll get to crudo there now is most likely ceviche, which is probably for the better anyway. Blanca's crudo, while good, was exorbitant. Not the kind of meal anyone can justify paying for in this economy.

The real story here, though, is about The Mor Project, the developers who were behind Blanca and Irezumi Sushi. They seemed to have disappeared from the face of the world, or at least the world wide web. Their website (http://www.morproject.com/) is offline, and so is Irezumi Sushi's.

The first hit on Google if you search for "The Mor Project" sheds some light on why. Posted two days ago, this website called The Rip-Off Report has a post by an "investor" who is allegedly suing its founder. And if you believe what the anonymous poster has to say, it's safe to assume that the wine bar and restaurant dubbed Fleur de L’Age the group was building at The Irvine Spectrum won't be opening soon, or ever.

In San Francisco: Sustainable Sushi

The San Francisco Chronicle had an interesting and informative article today on what's believed to be "the only sustainable sushi bar in North America." It serves no bluefin toro, hamachi, unagi, octopus or spider rolls (from Chinese blue crabs). It's called Tataki. Read about what they serve instead and how they do it here.

Foods to Show Country of Origin

According to various news reports and this one from ABC News, beginning this week, the USDA is requiring that all food retailers label some foods with their country of origin. The law, called COOL (Country of Origin Labeling) will mandate that the consumer is informed where all "raw beef, veal, lamb, pork, chicken, goat, wild and farm-raised fish and shellfish, fresh or frozen fruits and vegetables, peanuts, pecans, macadamia nuts and whole ginseng" are from.

Amid the widening Chinese milk scandal, this might seem timely, but the ABC article correctly notes that the recent outbreak of E. coli was from spinach grown in California.

Food Critic Elmer Dills Dies

TV food critic Elmer Dills, who was a regular on KABC's Eyewitness News, passed away yesterday at 82. Read the story on KABC's own website.

Race-Baiting Gigante Supermarket Now Closed

10Gigante1.jpgOne of the first investigative series I wrote was on Gigante Supermarkets, a multibillion-dollar Mexican chain that wanted to open a store in Anaheim in order to conquer local Latino households. Its efforts made national headlines because this multinational cried the race card after Anaheim planning officials approved their plans but denied a liquor license because the area where Gigante wanted to open a store already had too many over the legal limit. Gigante enlisted the help of mega-hitters--PR firm Waters & Faubel, race warrior Larry "Nativo" Lopez (who memorably, stupidly said Gigante's rejection amounted to "market ethnic cleansing"), and then-Anaheim mayoral candidate Curt Pringle--in order to browbeat the Anaheim City Council into approving the liquor license, going so far as to make the ridiculous claim Latinos in Anaheim were underserved in their supermarket needs. Gigante won, opened a store in 2003, and quickly spoke of becoming the dominant Latino supermarket in Southern California.

So what was the sign we saw yesterday while driving up Euclid Avenue on the way to visit Mami y Papi? A new sign proclaiming "EL SUPER." This is what I get for not reading the Orange County Business Journal--seems Gigante sold off its American holdings to another business over the summer, and the Gigante Reconquista is over. The culprit wasn't the faltering economy, but rather homegrown--the Northgate Gonzalez supermarket empire.

Read on...

The One Great Thing About the Great Park...

avanti.jpg
...Is Avanti Cafe, the Costa Mesa Slow Food laboratory of everything great and healthy. They serve food at the Great Park's Hangar Cafe for the massive thing's free Friday and Saturday concerts. The menu is limited--veggie burgers, three-way hummus (as delicious as it sound randy), salads, and a massive choco-chip cream cheese banana sandwich that's worth its pricey $8 price is about it. But in honor of the Great Park's multi-culti offerings, Avanti also prepares special menus themed with every performance--taro for Hawaiian groups, a potato-and-black-bean salad topped with an heirloom tomato dressing for the recent mick concert. This special menu is worth the drive down to Larry Agran's baby, but if you miss out, don't worry--just visit Avanti on Tuesdays for their International Tuesday offerings.

Two Shot in Alerto's Mexican Food Parking Lot

According to KTLA News, there was a gun fight overnight at the Alerto's Mexican Food parking lot in Westminster. Two people were shot, one critically.

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