Stick a Fork In It

My Sincerest Apologies to Tacos El Chavito

Wed, 07 Jan 2009 10:23:06 -0800

Yesterday, on my new KPFK-FM 90.7 Tuesdays @ 4 p.m. show, I was talking about last year's ridiculous proposal by the Los Angeles County Board of Supervisors to make carne asada a crime. I asked Erin Glenn, an organizer with the Asociación de Loncheros La Familia Unida de California, to name off some of her favorite Los Angeles-area taco trucks, and she rattled off the following list:

Tacos Colima, Mckinley Avenue and Florence Avenue, South Los Angeles

Tacos El Calusmo (sp?), Hoefner Avenue and Whittier Boulevard, East Los Angeles

Mariscos Colima, Alameda Street and Manchester Avenue, Los Angeles.

My producer, Alan Minsky, suggested La Estrella, off Avenue 54 and York in Highland Park, while my engineer Gee suggested El Torino off Olympic and Hoover. I, in my infinite Orange County food wisdom, blurted out my beloved Tacos El Chavito in Huntington Beach, home of the 50-cent taco and free pineapple juice.

Then, I froze.

I couldn't remember for the life of me where it was. I knew it was in Huntington Beach, but which cross street? I started to utter Edinger, but quickly took that back. I, I...failed.

Sorry, El Chavito, for denying you the KPFK nation. Everyone else: it's on Morgan Street, between Slater and Speer avenues, in Huntington Beach. Eat away, and don't commit the same mistake I did and forget where it is--EVER.

Taco Bell Crime of the Week, Part VII

Wed, 07 Jan 2009 03:59:43 -0800

Is Taco Bell truly God??? From northern New York state:

Jesus has left the manger.
A Watertown Department of Public Works employee noticed that the iconic statue of baby Jesus, and its manger, were missing from the display in Public Square on Friday morning.
The thief did leave a clear plastic Taco Bell container where the statue was nested.
Oh holy taco...

The Hidden Kitchen at Rooster Cafe Will Be Gone After Feb. 20th

Wed, 07 Jan 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Get it while it lasts, folks. The final curtain call for The Hidden Kitchen in its current incarnation at the Rooster Cafe will be February 20th.

Dr. Jeff Dobkin, one of the principals behind the project, wrote the following entry on their blog yesterday:

Next Phase

As those of you who have dined with us know, our current situation/location was/is only temporary. We continue to search for a space that we can call our own, one where we can flex our creative muscle a bit more (but not too much!): a few more options for dishes, lots more wine, etc. To this end, we have decided that February 20th will be the final day of service for The Hidden Kitchen at The Rooster Cafe. Keep coming back until then and make sure that we have your emails addresses, etc. so that we can get you info about our permanent location.

We have had a blast and thanks to Jack at the Rooster for his willingness to share space. We look forward to better, but not necessarily bigger, things.

Ciao

Jeff

So there you have it: there's not much time. And when you consider that it's only open for dinners Thursdays and Fridays, that means you have a total of 14 days to act.

Hopefully the foursome (Jeff, Julie, Jason and Holly) will transition to their own place soon after.

If you still don't have any idea what I'm talking about, read my full review HERE, and then get a reservation already!!!

The Laughable 2009 Zagat Orange County Guide

Tue, 06 Jan 2009 03:25:53 -0800

On one hand, it's great that Zagat Survey thinks so highly enough of Orange County that it should publish a naranja-only version of its insanely popular guides. On the other hand, how serious can you take a dining book that recommends Rainforest Cafe as a place to go?!

Such is the double-edged sword of Zagat, the original Yelp! and Chowhound but one showing its years and readership in its O.C. guide. Whereas Yelpers care for the buzz and nepotism, while Chowhounds love the dives, Zagateers in Orange County obsess over the safe. Out of 434 restaurants listed, only a handful are hole-in-the-wall restaurants, where the county's true treasures sit. Zagat OC is the type of publication that recommends Inka Grill for Peruvian instead of Nory's, Brodard Chateau instead of the original Brodard, includes more fondue places (two) than true Middle Eastern spots (just Zankou's, and that's classified under "Mediterranean"), doesn't include a single taquería and even has a category for Asian. At least they didn't classify Mexican cuisine as "Spanish."

There are good choices in the booklet--Old Vine Cafe and Taleo and Gabbi's and quite a few others, but save the six bucks this book costs and just continue reading this publication, which costs you only a couple of cheap ads and gratuitous plugs.

Newport Beach & Orange County Restaurant Week Coming Soon

Tue, 06 Jan 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Things to put down on your day planner, your iPhone calendar, Blackberry, or whatever: January 18-22 is going to be the Third Annual Newport Beach Restaurant Week. This is the time when a selected roster of restaurants will be offering a three-course prix fixe for $15 or $20 for lunch, and $20 or $35 for dinner.

Though I've never been, I had an amazing lunch once at Lucques in L.A. during a similar event a few years ago. A three-course meal for what's usually the price of an entree -- that's hard to beat.

Open Table has a list of participating restaurants and which price points they've chosen. To see the full list, CLICK HERE.

Not to be outdone, the newly-formed Orange County Restaurant Association is also going to do an event encompassing the whole of O.C. on February 22-28.

Their participants will also offer a discounted prix fixe and specialty menus for $20, $30 or $40 per person. Not all of the restaurants have been inked, but those that are already on board seem an impressive bunch. Check the list HERE.

Avanti Cafe International Tuesday Menu for January

Mon, 05 Jan 2009 13:41:39 -0800

My continued favorite food happening is 2008 OC Weekly Best Restaurant Avanti Cafe's International Tuesdays, where $11.50 gets you a three-course meal of cuisines rare to these parts. This month's theme: regional cuisines of India, as follows. Note "Veronica" and "Bart" are the junior chefs at Avanti to owners Mark Cleveland and Tanya Fuqua in name only; they can outcook most any chef in Orange County:

Brahmin Veronica's PUNJAB
Tuesday, January 6
Dal Maharini - Punjab lentil soup
Sabzi Pulao - Vegetables & rice
w/ ginger chili
Mango Lassi - Mango yogurt drink

Swami Bart's BENGAL
Tuesday, January 13
Cholar Dal - Bengali lentil soup
Khatte Baigan Bhaji - Sweet & sour eggplant
Narkol Nadu - Coconut cardamon drink

Maharincess Veronica's GOA
Tuesday, January 20
Tomato Coconut Soup
Cauliflower Pulao - Cauliflower stew w/ brown rice
Moira - Plantain croquettes

Yogi Bart's SOUTH INDIA
Tuesday, January 27
Dal Phokali - South Indian lentil soup
Vangi Batata Bahaji - Eggplant & potatoes w/ brown rice
Indian Brown Rice Pudding

I will be at each, although at different times due to my KPFK-FM 90.7 show at 4 p.m. every Tuesday. Find me at Avanti on Tuesday, and your international courses are on me!

Avanti Cafe, 259 E. 17th St., Costa Mesa, (949) 548-2224; www.avantinatural.com

The Unluckiest 7-Eleven In Orange County

Mon, 05 Jan 2009 03:24:21 -0800

I have many fond memories of 7-11. When I went to Sycamore Junior High in Anaheim, I'd play the pinball version of Terminator 2: Judgment Day before taking the bus down La Palma Avenue. In my drunken years, 7-Eleven has always stocked my all-time favorite fast food: Zingers. And one of my most-prized possessions is a beat-up 7-Eleven cup that was a promotion back when Maggie shot Mr. Burns that I found on the street, used, which should show you the priorities I keep in this world.

There is one 7-11 I will never visit, however: the one on the corner of 17th and Flower Streets in SanTana. It's been the scene of hold-ups TWICE within the span of a recent week: a store robbery on Dec. 26, and a parking lot hold-up on Dec. 31. I've been to this 7-11 quite a few times, and it's actually the gateway business to SanTana Mayor Don Papi Pulido's Floral Park neighborhood--or, it would be if drivers could actually drive north on Flower into Floral Park. Maybe those segregationists are onto something--or maybe their bit of paradise might be coming to an end?

The Whole Pita a.k.a. The Greek Island Grille a.k.a. Thasos

Mon, 05 Jan 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Costa Mesa's The Whole Pita (a.k.a. "The Greek Island Grill") is now known as "Thasos - Greek Island Grille".

Same owners, same food (for the most part), but a new name.

Why did the place pull a Sean "Puff Daddy/P. Diddy/Diddy" Combs on us? I called and asked. They have a few new items, they said. I didn't really press on to get them to really tell me why "Thasos" was better than "The Whole Pita", because I kind of already knew.

"The Whole Pita" sounds like a place that focuses on just, well, pitas -- and why pigeonhole yourself when you don't have to, especially when Greek food has more to it than pitas.

Plus, Thassos is an actual Greek island!

In any case, I was glad to see that they were sticking it out. In this economy, you do whatever you can, even if you have to follow the playbook of a self-promoting rap mogul.

THASOS - Greek Island Grille, 3940 S. Bristol St., Suite 113, Santa Ana, CA 92704

California Shabu Shabu To Open in Costa Mesa

Fri, 02 Jan 2009 12:23:49 -0800

Recently, I noticed that California Shabu Shabu is opening up another location in Costa Mesa, next to the Shark Club.

What's REALLY interesting here isn't the fact that the Fountain Valley staple is expanding, but that they have an honestly-written blog that details the day-to-day travails of setting up a restaurant.

Negotiating the use of the shared parking lot with Shark Club, various permit problems, and "all the bad juju that was flowing (their) way" are all chronicled with great aplomb by its writer -- a person named Len.

But in one revealing post, Len writes "again I will spare you the details so I can refrain from grabbing the plastic knife from my take out lunch and raking it down the length of my arms repeatedly."

And then there's this DOOZY: Mistaken for burglars, they were almost arrested while working on their property by the Costa Mesa police department!!! Guns were drawn! They were handcuffed! And, most importantly, hilarious pictures were taken.

For me it's a fascinating and often funny look into the frustrations, hard work, dangers, and hidden minutiae of starting up a place. For its writer, I bet it's a good way to vent.

A Joke Made at Hamamori's Expense

Thu, 01 Jan 2009 04:44:22 -0800

First of all, I love Hamamori. I love it for all its exorbitant, creative, luxurious food. But as I walked past it today (on my way to Macy's Home at South Coast's Crystal Court), three uniformed paramedics** came out of the restaurant, carrying their equipment.

"Someone must have just seen their check", I quipped to my companion.

I got a well-deserved chuckle, but surely, you guys could come up with better punchlines than that...

**UPDATE: My lovely companion just corrected me. They were actually from the Costa Mesa Fire Department, who'd usually be the first responders.

Salty, Overpriced, Inattentive, Mild, Disappointing Lola Gaspar in Santa Ana

Wed, 31 Dec 2008 14:16:07 -0800

*Moved up, 'cause I hear people are reading this and talking. Did you know that if you Google "Lola Gaspar," this is the first post that shows up? Another strike against Lola--if ustedes had a website, this phenomenon probably would've never happened...

**Moved up YET AGAIN because people still keep leaving comments. So far, most commented post in Stick a Fork in It's young history...

***Originally published Dec. 15, 2008

I've been to many a restaurant opening in my day, and--even when allowing for opening-day jitters--one can usually tell the worth of a place in those first few days of service. The good ones inevitably prove to become classics--Old Vine Cafe, Onotria, and Veggie Grill come quickly to mind. Even if there were a couple of slip-ups here and there, something redeemed each place and its peers. Bad restaurants, on the other hand, tend to stay bad restaurants no matter how many tweaks the owners attempt after opening night. If you can't get something right the first time, it's telling of fundamental problems in the operations.

And this latter scenario, gentle readers, is where Lola Gaspar firmly sits in today.

I truly had high hopes for this downtown SanTana place, being that the guys behind Habana at the LAB in Costa Mesa were in charge of the menu. I guess the first warning sign of what was to come happened with the delays in the opening date. A voice message claimed Lola was to open December 5, seven days a week, from 10:30 a.m. until two in the morn. But the debut wouldn't happen until the 13th, a full week later. No es bueno.

It happens. But when milady and I stopped in last night, our waitress promptly informed us that not all the items on the menu were available. Uh, Lola people? Do not open a restaurant--even if it's a soft opening--if you're not ready to deliver. Restaurant Opening 101.

You can click here for pictures of the menu, which veers between Nuevo Latino platters and Mexican dishes. And this is where Lola Gaspar failed--badly.

Gustavo's Top Five Drinks of 2008

Wed, 31 Dec 2008 10:10:48 -0800

Hint to restaurants: you'll get in my better graces if you offer great, non-alcoholic drinks. Beverages rank high on my palate, and I'll never forget the banana soda offered by a long-gone Honduran restaurant. Here, then, were my favorite drinks of the year.

1. Maker's Mark, neat, at Memphis at the Santora. Yes, you can get Maker's near everywhere, since the cool kids want to play hillbilly nowadays (but do they know the joys of getting blotto in high school on Jim Beam while cranking "Rocky Top" by the Osborne Brothers, followed by Hank Williams? Don't ask). But Memphis' bartenders remain top-notch, the danger for random hectoring is always amusingly high, and the cast of regulars is fast approaching Cheers level. Memphis at the Santora. 201 N. Broadway, Santa Ana, (714) 564-1064; www.memphiscafe.com.

2. Rosewater at Cafe Matinee. This Lake Forest Lebanese treasure actually sells two other drinks--date and mulberry juice--you probably won't find anywhere else in the county. But it's their rose water that is the best revelation, something so luxuriant you'll want to pour on someone and get, um, romantic. 23532 El Toro Rd., Ste. 15, Lake Forest, (949) 588-7511.

3. Mint tea at Kareem's Restaurant. I did this review years ago, and the quality of the food has never suffered. The falafels are still the best in Orange County, the owners still kind. End all meals with the mint tea--you'll never use sugar again. 1208 S. Brookhurst St., Anaheim, (714) 778-6829.

4. Whatever the hell green or red syrup a lot of Thai restaurants sell. You know what I'm talking about--a Christmas-red or -green drink usually called "red syrup" or "green syrup" or--in the mysterious case of Wheel of Life in Irvine--"blue boy." Is it native to Thailand? An Americanized take? Nothing more than syrup? Whatever it is, it's liquid crack. At most any Thai restaurant in Orange County.

5. Free water virtually at every restaurant. Better be grateful for what we have now, amigos!

Thus ends my blogging here for 2008. Gracias, thank you, gracias, to the loyal readers I can think off the top of my head (Melissa, hungrymomma & poppa, Cesar, Wonginator, DiamonDog, DanGarion, Ben Dayhoe), to the rest of you, and to all the commentators. Tune in on Monday, Jan. 5, for more great restaurants, crappy openings, scandals, and a lot of other desmadre. In the meanwhile, "Rocky Top"!

Edwin's Top Ten Dishes of 2008

Wed, 31 Dec 2008 01:05:36 -0800

After seeing Gustavo's two wonderful lists, I've decided that I want to play, too!

Here are ten of my favorite dishes of 2008, in no particular order:

- Tuna danish at 85°C Bakery Café in Irvine.

- Rice and beans at Baja Fish Tacos in Santa Ana.

- Tau hu ky at Com Tam Tran Quy Cap in Fountain Valley.

- Sisig at Magic Wok in Artesia (I know, not in O.C., but this is MY list).

- Both flavors of fried chicken wings at Kyochon in Stanton.

- Ci tuan fan at Champion Food Co. in Fountain Valley.

- Strawberry croissant at Japonaise Bakery and Cafe in Tustin.

- Everything at the Hidden Kitchen in Costa Mesa.

- "House Special" lobster at King Lobster Palace in Orange.

- 7-courses of beef at Thien An in Garden Grove.

Gustavo's Top Five Dishes of 2008

Tue, 30 Dec 2008 10:02:01 -0800

Bullet points for these:

1. Sangak bread at Wholesome Choice in Irvine. 18040 Culver Dr., Irvine, (949) 551-4111; www.wholesomechoice.com.

2. The chorizo taco at Carnitas Los Reyes. 273 S. Tustin St., Orange, (714) 744-9337.

3. Avanti Cafe's International Tuesdays, where you can feast on a three-course meal for about $11. 259 E. 17th St., Costa Mesa, (949) 548-2224.

4. The birria at...well, you'll have to read This Hole-in-the-Wall life tomorrow to find out!

5. The fried-chicken sandwich at Memphis at the Santora. 201 N. Broadway, Santa Ana, (714) 564-1064; www.memphiscafe.com

IKEA Does Catering?

Tue, 30 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

So I was eating my 99-cent IKEA breakfast the other day, when I noticed a placard on the table. It said "Did you know that IKEA caters?".

"No," I answered. "No, I didn't know that."

Though I've got nothing against IKEA food, I've always thought of it as a means to an end. For IKEA, it's a device to bring in furniture shoppers; for the shoppers, it's a convenient and cheap source of sustenance before shopping.

Don't get me wrong: I love their breakfast. I go there specifically to have it, and often, I leave without buying anything more. Though I admit: sometimes, I indulge in a frozen yogurt cone that they sell downstairs (at the same place the 50-cent hot dogs roll on weiner treadmills).

But again -- for its intent and purpose, IKEA food is seems a little incongruous for say, your New Years Eve bash. What do you think? Would you ask IKEA to cater your party?

Though I can tell you that if I ever find myself at an IKEA catered event, I'm going straight for the Daim Torte -- seriously -- one of the best dessert things I've ever had.

Hmm, maybe IKEA should open a bakery instead.