63. Breakfast Taco at Sapphire Laguna

Photo by The Mexican
Very bueno!

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"A breakfast taco at Sapphire?" I mumbled when I saw the breakfast options at Sapphire Laguna, the excellent farm-to-table restaurant of Chef Azmin Ghahreman. The place has always cut the difference between tourist-friendly offerings and Ghahreman's ambitions, and a breakfast taco--a trend slowly trickling in from Texas--seemed out of place here.

The dish came. "That's not a breakfast taco," I groaned. Indeed, if you look at it, it's more like a huarache--two tortillas on which a bed of scrambled eggs, pico de gallo, and cheese sit. And so pretty! I was ready to dismiss it as Laguna pomposity...and then I bit into it.

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It's what Rick Bayless wish he could offer in OC: traditional Mexican food that's actually good. Sapphire's cuisine has always been delicate and nuanced, and that's what their breakfast taco is about: the fluffiness of the eggs, the tartness of the salsa, the savory quesillo on the bottom. You have a choice of avocado, bacon or turkey chili for the protein portion; I went with the chili, and it was good enough for Terlingua.

Was this a breakfast taco? Not even close. Was it delicious? Damn straight.
The List:

64. Husky Burger at Husky Boy Burgers
65. Love Bagel from Koffee Klatch
66. Kouign Amann From The Crema Cafe & Bakery
67. Chili Lime Popcorn From Green Tomato Grill
68. PB & J At Hopscotch
69. Takuwan Sushi from AnQi by Crustacean
70. Ube Ensaymadas from The Ensaymada Project
71. Pork Bánh Mì at the OC Poultry and Rotisserie Market
72. Tacos Gobernador from Mariscos Los Corales
73. Dutch Baby at the Original Pancake House
74. Doughnuts from Sidecar
75. Lengua Tacos at La Chonita
76. Oysters from Carlsbad Aquafarm at the Orange Homegrown Farmers Market
77. Lemon Miso Crab Melt at Umami Burger in Laguna Beach
78. Pani Puri from Adya
79. The Pocket at the Pocket Burger
80. Gyro Sandwich from Paul's Place
81. Slice of Heaven at Pie-Not
82. Taquitos at El Toro Bravo
83. Peanut Butter and Jelly Donut at the Donuttery
84. Dan Dan Mian at Wei-Shian Noodle
85. Beef Burger at Rider's Club Café
86. Smoked Trout at Provenance
87. Small Plates at A&J Restaurant
88. Corn Cheese at Zoomak Asian Bistro
89. Pumpkin Curry at Bhan Baitong
90. Poke at Costco Tustin II
91. Pambazo at Tacos Radioactivos
92. Beef Pho at Pho Crystal Noodle House
93. Breakfast Burrito from Cafe Calacas
94. Koobideh Plate from Grill Cafe
95. Tacos de Cecina from Alebrije's
96. Jajangmyeong from Ching Chinese Express
97. Breakfast Sausage from Da-Le Ranch
98. Any Special Dinner by Old Vine Cafe's Mark McDonald
99. Tres Amigos Burrito from Piaggio on Wheels
100. Bacon-Wrapped Dates from Lola Gaspar

Email: garellano@ocweekly.com. Twitter: @gustavoarellano.

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Location Info

Sapphire Laguna Restaurant & Pantry

1200 S. Coast Highway, Laguna Beach, CA

Category: Restaurant

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