Long Beach Lunch: Shenanigans

Sarah Bennett

Remember that scene in Super Troopers when the chief threatens to pistol whip the next person who says "shenanigans" and Mac lures in Farva by asking the name of "that restaurant you like with all the goofy shit on the walls and the mozzarella sticks"?

It was all I could think about when a place called Shenanigans opened the decades-old New-England-fishing town-inspired tourist attraction Shoreline Village a few years ago, but thankfully (or unfortunately if you're into TGI Fridays), this is not that restaurant.

The latest establishment to nest in the oft-turned-over location about midway through the Village is actually an Irish bar, and not even the kind that most Americans open with a permanent Guinness handle and a menu full of pizza and wings.

Shenanigans might be less stoically Irish than the brown bar Auld Dubliner up the street (it loses points for its canary yellow exterior paint job and having cartoon shamrocks fluttering across the menu), but they still offer a range of authentic dishes from the Republic that are unlikely offerings for an eatery that calls Yardhouse and Tequila Jack's neighbors.

Sarah Bennett
corned beef and cabbage

Most of the items offered have cheeky Irish names, from the Cork clam chowder to the Kilkenny burger to the pot o' gold shepherd's pie. I go when I'm craving the Murphy's corned beef and cabbage dinner or the Guinness Irish stew because it's not often I can afford to have time-consuming foods like this have a long, lovely simmer in my own kitchen.

The round of corned beef brisket comes in a big bowl with a half-head of cabbage and sliced carrots and potatoes. As per most food from the United Kingdom, the vegetables are pretty bland and benefit from a healthy dose of salt, however, the round of corned beef brisket is already spiced and salty, its meat flaking with the grain under the tender touch of a fork.

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