The Five Most Influential Cities in the Development of Mexican Food in the United States

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Out April 12
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SO...my much-promised book, Taco USA: How Mexican Food Conquered America finally hits the bookstores next month (April 10), and review copies are slowly making their way around the nation's newsrooms. So I might as well start giving out bits and pieces to entice ustedes to preorder the damn thing.

For the next couple of weeks, I'll concoct lists and drop other bits from the book to serve that end. This week? Settling once and for all what city helped define Mexican food in the United States more than any other. Note this isn't a debate about the BEST Mexican city; this is about which burg hosted the most pioneers, inspired the most people, and helped spread the cult of tacos, tamales, margaritas further than anyone.

Unsurprisingly, it's a fight to the death between California and Texas (sorry, Chicago, but as great as your city is, merely hosting an arrogant, second-rate chef isn't enoughl). The list after you-know-what!


5. El Paso
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The pride of El Paso
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What? Dirty-ass, border-loving El Paso? Damn straight. Those who have never spent more than a gas station village in the city will never be able to love it, never be able to appreciate its beauty. And although its specific cuisine never ventured past city borders to influence American tastes, two of its companies did: Old El Paso (which was historically based up I-10 in Canutillo, Texas--but who's counting?) and Ashley's, a long-gone brand. Both of them emerged in the 1950s to change how Americans ate Mexican food at home, namely through the manufacturing of taco shells and the ability to make your own taco shells at home.

4. San Francisco
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The burrito that took over America by ripping off San Francisco
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SanFran can boast of only three influential contributions to Mexican food in this country, and one of them--Elena Zelayeta, the country's first famous Mexican cook who was, you know Mexican instead of some scheming gabacha--ultimately didn't prove too influential. But its two other contributions--the Mission-style burrito and tamales--profoundly shaped the tastes of Americans. We all know the story of Chipotle and its burritos stolen from the Mission District--but tamales? Yep. They were America' first Mexican-food obsession, all the way back in the 1880s, and San Francisco was the instigator--and you'll have to read the book to discover the true, amazing story of when and how San Francisco tamales ruled America.
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148 comments
john king
john king

Gustavo...please have a sit-down with Jonathan Gold and explain to him how a Mission fatty is superior to any Los Angeles burrito. I like Gold in general, but he is almost always off the mark in terms of burritos.

lupe tortilla
lupe tortilla

Tender and tasty flour tortillas can be used as a side bread for dipping, the main attraction to hold the contents of dinner, or just as a snack, warmed up and spread with soft creamy butter. I've even created spectacular tortilla desserts that my family clammers for! 

lupe tortilla
lupe tortilla

.flour, fat, water, salt, and that's it! However, when these humble ingredients are mixed together in the proper way, suddenly they are transformed into a delicious soft and tender wrap for savory chicken, spicy beef, tender pork, or any type of meat, fish, vegetable or even fruit that you can think of!

lupe tortilla
lupe tortilla

flour, fat, water, salt, and that's it! However, when these humble ingredients are mixed together in the proper way, suddenly they are transformed into a delicious soft and tender wrap for savory chicken, spicy beef, tender pork, or any type of meat, fish, vegetable or even fruit that you can think of!

lupe tortilla
lupe tortilla

I cook a lot of Mexican style dinners, and if I dare try to slip in store bought tortillas, well the groans and complaints make me wish I had gone to the small amount of trouble it takes to bake a batch... Because there is no comparison! Tortillas are a simple food..

Chavezadr
Chavezadr

The Old El Paso factory was based in Anthony, Texas, just a few miles down the road from Canutillo but far enough for there to be a distinction between the two small town.

lupe tortilla catering
lupe tortilla catering

Our accommodations for the night did not have a connection with the movies, although the popular MacCallum House bed and breakfast inn has a strong connection with Mendocino history. This house dates back to 1882 and was built by Alexander MacCallum, 

  lupe tortilla menu
lupe tortilla menu

Blair House bed and breakfast was the fictional home of Jessica Fletcher, the character Angela Lansbury played in Murder She Wrote. Over at Heritage House, their claim to fame is that the inn was used as the setting for the movie Same Time Next Year. And so it goes.

  lupe tortilla menu
lupe tortilla menu

In the Village you'll find a variety of eclectic shops - unusual records, one-of-a-kind musical instruments, vintage toys, you name it -- mingled with historic homes, inns and fine restaurants. With more than 60 movies filmed here, it seems like everybody has a movie connection of some sort.

  lupe tortilla menu
lupe tortilla menu

In the Village you'll find a variety of eclectic shops - unusual records, one-of-a-kind musical instruments, vintage toys, you name it -- mingled with historic homes, inns and fine restaurants. With more than 60 movies filmed here, it seems like everybody has a movie connection of some sort.

  lupe tortilla menu
lupe tortilla menu

In the Village you'll find a variety of eclectic shops - unusual records, one-of-a-kind musical instruments, vintage toys, you name it -- mingled with historic homes, inns and fine restaurants. With more than 60 movies filmed here, it seems like everybody has a movie connection of some sort.

  lupe tortilla menu
lupe tortilla menu

In the Village you'll find a variety of eclectic shops - unusual records, one-of-a-kind musical instruments, vintage toys, you name it -- mingled with historic homes, inns and fine restaurants. With more than 60 movies filmed here, it seems like everybody has a movie connection of some sort.

  lupe tortilla menu
lupe tortilla menu

In the Village you'll find a variety of eclectic shops - unusual records, one-of-a-kind musical instruments, vintage toys, you name it -- mingled with historic homes, inns and fine restaurants. With more than 60 movies filmed here, it seems like everybody has a movie connection of some sort.

  lupe tortilla menu
lupe tortilla menu

In the Village you'll find a variety of eclectic shops - unusual records, one-of-a-kind musical instruments, vintage toys, you name it -- mingled with historic homes, inns and fine restaurants. With more than 60 movies filmed here, it seems like everybody has a movie connection of some sort.

  lupe tortilla menu
lupe tortilla menu

 Windswept trees, rolling grassy hills and steep cliffs are footsteps from the Village by way of several miles of coastal trails that are perfect for hiking and photography. Down below are remote beaches and the cragged, rocky shoreline.

  lupe tortilla menu
lupe tortilla menu

 Windswept trees, rolling grassy hills and steep cliffs are footsteps from the Village by way of several miles of coastal trails that are perfect for hiking and photography. Down below are remote beaches and the cragged, rocky shoreline.

  lupe tortilla menu
lupe tortilla menu

 Windswept trees, rolling grassy hills and steep cliffs are footsteps from the Village by way of several miles of coastal trails that are perfect for hiking and photography. Down below are remote beaches and the cragged, rocky shoreline.

  lupe tortilla menu
lupe tortilla menu

Mendocino is perched high on a bluff overlooking the vast Pacific. It's a small town and really just what you would think a New England fishing village would look like. A mixture of Cape Cod architecture and historic storefronts gives the town an almost theme-town kind of appearance. 

  lupe tortilla menu
lupe tortilla menu

Mendocino is perched high on a bluff overlooking the vast Pacific. It's a small town and really just what you would think a New England fishing village would look like. A mixture of Cape Cod architecture and historic storefronts gives the town an almost theme-town kind of appearance. 

  lupe tortilla menu
lupe tortilla menu

Driving this part of Highway 101, you really do have to make an extra effort to focus on your driving, lest you be lulled into some sort of meditative trance.

  lupe tortilla menu
lupe tortilla menu

Driving this part of Highway 101, you really do have to make an extra effort to focus on your driving, lest you be lulled into some sort of meditative trance.

  lupe tortilla menu
lupe tortilla menu

Driving this part of Highway 101, you really do have to make an extra effort to focus on your driving, lest you be lulled into some sort of meditative trance.

  lupe tortilla menu
lupe tortilla menu

When you visit this town for the first time, the seascape just reaches out and touches your spirit. It's not just Mendocino - the entire stretch of coastline heading north into Mendocino yields view after view, each a little more spectacular than the last one. 

  lupe tortilla menu
lupe tortilla menu

When you visit this town for the first time, the seascape just reaches out and touches your spirit. It's not just Mendocino - the entire stretch of coastline heading north into Mendocino yields view after view, each a little more spectacular than the last one. 

  lupe tortilla menu
lupe tortilla menu

The series ran 12 years altogether, filming its last episode in 1996. During that time, 264 episodes were broadcast to millions of viewers each week, each segment serving up a good helping of scenery in and around Mendocino. Interestingly there were just nine episodes actually filmed in the town -

Daily Reader
Daily Reader

FattyFatBastard, shut up.  You like to argue too much.

Tsmith
Tsmith

Houston does have the most Fast Food Restaurants in Texas, and the largest waist lines.Were #1, were #1.  

Lcmoreno1969
Lcmoreno1969

Bertha's Mexican Restaurant was the best in Houston.

FattyFatBastard
FattyFatBastard

 Next time in Houston, go to El Real for the tamales, cheese enchiladas and frito pie.  Trust me.

Newportblue65
Newportblue65

Gustavo......You have done your home work on this one.....In 1955 the only Mexican seasoning sold in  OC Super Markets were " Gebhardt'" chili powder. It was made in Texas...People used it because it was mentioned in a popular cook book of the time. The recipe was for Chili con Carne. It is still for sale at the Ralph's today.

gustavoarellano
gustavoarellano

What was the name of the book???

Newportblue65
Newportblue65

I can't remember the name now.... Big and full of recipes.......Most likely the " Better Homes and Gardens". That cook book was very big in those years. Folks said it had to be " Gebhardt's" because it had "cumin" in it. I had no idea what cumin was..............Which is why I remember it...........West Anaheim was just a salt and pepper place then!......

Keli Dailey
Keli Dailey

Love for the #1 Mexperimental city, my Saytown.

qdpsteve
qdpsteve

Thanks for making me voraciously hungry, Gustavo. Now I've just GOT to have a tamale... ;-)

In the meantime: will there be a chapter in your book on the San Antonio Chili Queens?

Alva
Alva

As usual, Gussy's writing is a day late and a peso short.  The vast majority of mexican restos he worships are Jalisciense.  Nothing against that, they're actually pretty good.

But the real chingadera are the delicias coming from Oaxacan and Mayan peoples who, rather than bore their diners with yet another taqueria, are bringing the amor with multiple moles, "chingame" poc chuc, poderoso pibiles and tasty tlayudas.

So Senor Vendido, your book is already outdated.  Ask your gabacho editor which topic is current next time.

Con besos

gustavoarellano
gustavoarellano

Jalisciense? San Antonio is all northern Mexico, as is El Paso and San Fransico, Dallas and the like. But please keep spewing your racist drivel (bien que you'll eat the Oaxacan food but don't want them in this country)—you just prove my points again and again!

Alva
Alva

 Editing, spell check, repeat.

gustavoarellano
gustavoarellano

Better to misspell than be a pendejo like yourself, son!

Economic Warfare Ins
Economic Warfare Ins

So the idea is did Mexican food conquer America or did American food conquer Mexico. As western foods have always been what you know as burritos and tacos in the American Tribal territories which were conquered by Spain then Mexico and the US rebelled against kings and the land was sold to the US. Where Spanish missionaries preparing what you call Mexican food and I call American food was still done and never left. All Spanish missionaries in the US will tell you American conquered Mexican food and blended it with the worlds Spanish cultures it never left. Mexico just made a few new adds to it like nachos. Which is pure Mexican food the others are very blended worldy food groups. 

gustavoarellano
gustavoarellano

What's amazing about your comments is that they become more and more ludicrous.

Economic Warfare Ins
Economic Warfare Ins

What is more interesting and a more in depth research article on foods in conquest is how in the US territories the Spanish missionaries took Mayan tribal foods and American Indian tribal foods and blended them together. Now that is also a great study. The Spanish conquest of foods is one of the best know stories next to the Indian's who conquered the world spice trade such a long time ago. 

Economic Warfare Ins
Economic Warfare Ins

I love Latin America foods. They are great foods but the most part easy to cook and fast for home foods. I would like to also that the Spain's influence in the region when it controlled the majority of areas of Latin America also had a great impact in food. If you really want to do a proper food issue. Mexican food did not conquer America as the Spanish had brought its variety of foods and the Latin American foods up with it when it made its way to Central America or the USA territories. Which it owned for sometime before the US helped Mexico in its civil war Independence against Spain and then Mexico sold the territories to the USA. The Spanish foods are also a great foods. It is an interesting study how Spanish conquestadors had taken food from around the world in their conquest and brought them together to help create what is today known as Mexican food in the US but in Europe known as Spanish food. I think it is one of the first muti cultural food groups. As not even English conquerors or French took foods and used them in their culture like the Spanish did. 

Rider I

rodger
rodger

Fritos= Mexican Now thats a real stretch! Dallas s**** . How about Momma Ninfa the original combo plates and Fajitas in Houston.

gustavoarellano
gustavoarellano

Given Gustavo Olguin--a Mexican from Oaxaca--created them, yes: Fritos are Mexican.

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