Rubio's Tries--and Fails--to Reproduce the Taco Salceado
"What a hot mess," I replied. "It sounds like someone's trying to reproduce Tacos Salceados. Who is it?"
Sure enough, when I went over to the booth, there was a line 50 deep, waiting for a cook who was desperately trying to make chicharrones de queso--cheese melted on a flat-top grill until it turns brown and crispy on one side--in sufficient quantity to satisfy the milling hordes. The idea was to re-create the taco salceado, the specialty of a Tijuana restaurant run by a master saucier. The taco salceado is your choice of ingredient rolled into a chicharrón de queso, thrown into a corn tortilla, then sauced with one of an array of outstanding, interesting, non-standard sauces.
Rubio's, you get points for a valiant attempt to introduce America to the stunning wonder that is the taco salceado, but the execution was awful. Go find some quesillo--it makes reliably wonderful chicharrón de queso even on my own home griddle--and send a bunch of your cooks down to the La Mesa neighborhood of Tijuana to study the real thing.
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