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No. 99: Tortilla Andorra at Anepalco's

anepalco_tortilla.jpg

Welcome to the Weekly's list of our 100 Favorite Dishes for 2011! Tune in every day until we get to número uno! Now, on the the the latest entry. . . .

Anepalco's is rightfully celebrated for its traditionalist approach to French crepes and modernist take on Mexican meals, but folks sometimes forget chef/owner Danny Godinez also makes outstanding versions of tortillas--not the cornmeal cake of Latin America, but the meal that first attained the name, a sort-of omelet with ingredients placed on top of and cooked with a touch of olive oil. You usually find such tortillas at Argentine restaurants, but Godinez treats them in a purely Spanish vein, and none are finer than the tortilla Andorra, shown above.


The tortilla is cooked thin and crispy, like the best omelets, but these eggs are fluffier, creamier. I'm not sure where the Andorran part comes into this tortilla, but no matter: The Spanish-style chorizo is fatty but not oily, chewier like a salami, with a saltiness that plays well off the even-saltier goat cheese. The spring onions freshen the meal--and that's it, save the side of rosemary-scented potatoes. Simplicity at its yummiest--and, of course, Godinez's more-complex meals will make appearances later. But deviate from his chilaquiles and huevos divorciados every couple of weeks for this filling desmadre. . . .

Anepalco's, 415 S. Main St., Orange, (714) 771-2333; anepalcoscafe.com.

The list so far:

No. 100, Lemongrass Chicken, Extra Spicy at Vietnam's Pearl.

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Location Info

Anepalco's Cafe

415 S. Main St., Orange, CA

Category: Restaurant

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8 comments
JChild
JChild

"The tortilla is cooked thin and crispy, like the best omelets, but these eggs are fluffier, creamier."

The tortillas at Anepalco's may be good (and I'm glad to hear they're creamy), but great French-style omelets are not thin and crispy. They're soft and creamy -- the product of 20-25 wild-shaking seconds over very high heat -- and usually twice-folded to the thickness of three of those skinny tortillas plus any (modest amount of) filling. The Italian frittata is similar to the tortilla, but it's much thicker and is cooked slowly over an ultra-low flame for 10-15 minutes.

All can be delicious, properly done, but in my experience, just under 100% of the omelets served in America restaurants are disgusting -- overbeaten, overcooked, dry as rooster spit, and folded around clunky, undercooked fillings. I gave up hope long ago, which is why I've made French-style omelets at home several times a week for the entire third millennium.

Dave Lieberman
Dave Lieberman

You're talking about omelettes à la Mère Poulard when you talk about 20-25 seconds over very high heat, but those are an oft-copied dish from a tourist trap of a restaurant near le Mont-St.-Michel and are not typical of most French omelettes... though you are right that French omelettes are never thin and crispy—though, to be fair, the picture doesn't look thin and crispy either.

I happen to love my omelettes baveuses—"drooling" with undercooked egg. It takes a lot of convincing to get non-French restaurateurs to make it for me.

JChild
JChild

No, I'm talking about omelets made using what Julia Child's Mastering the Art of French Cooking calls "professional techniques" -- see http://www.randomhouse.com/kno... . They also drool like a St. Bernard, in a manner that lawyers for non-French restaurants in this country fear. I've had this style over much of France, in better restaurants elsewhere in Western Europe, and in Montreal. I used to get fine omelets at Bette's Oceanview Diner in Berkeley (which overstuffed them, however) but hardly anywhere else in the U. S.

Deportstabo
Deportstabo

go back to mexico

Aihao12
Aihao12

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Bruno Showalter, DDS
Bruno Showalter, DDS

You're giving us Arellano skeptics a bad name. Or maybe that's the point?

gustavoarellano
gustavoarellano

Talk about a group of guys with nothing else to do...

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