Eat Here, Not There: Fried Calamari

benley_calamari.jpg
Edwin Goei
What is more ubiquitous and universal than fried, battered squid? Whether you're in a Filipino restaurant, Italian, American, Greek or what-have-you, it's the one dish you're likely to find across almost all menus, traversing cultural lines.

Think of the last time you saw an appetizer list that didn't have calamari on it. It's almost as predictable and reliable as the wedge of lemon it usually comes with. Before it became so popular, squid was one of the cheapest seafood, if not the cheapest, taking a minimal amount of prep and effort to prepare, a profit center unto itself. Today, it's still customer bait.

As I mentioned, you can get it just about anywhere. But in Benley's rendition ($7.95), simply called fried cuttlefish (though I believe it's really squid), the dish transcends the ordinary. It's still listed as an appetizer, and it's certainly appetizing, but there is no lemon wedge and not a trace of dipping sauce to be found anywhere in its vicinity.

All the flavor you need has already been introduced and married into the battered rings. There's salt and a flurry of pepper for sure, but then there's something else you can't place, an addictive substance perhaps, because once you had your first, you can't bring yourself to stop.

Bits of wilted cilantro are tossed into the finishing stir-fry, as is the juice of something citric. The pebbly batter crunches in spots like GrapeNuts. The squid is, itself, the natural foil, tender, soft and lovely. Any other fried-calamari appetizer would have to swim pretty far to catch up.

Location Info

Benley: A Vietnamese Kitchen

8191 E. Wardlow Road, Long Beach, CA

Category: Restaurant


Sponsor Content

My Voice Nation Help
3 comments
1000Steps
1000Steps

I still find the calamari at Scott's Seafood to be best in the county.

Polar
Polar

Hrrrm gonna have to try this place.Edwin, when you get a chance, please check out this place and order their salt and pepper squid. It is a Chinese/Vietnamese restaurant.Oriental Seafood Noodle House14370 Culver Dr., Ste HIrvine, CA 92604

JB
JB

About 3 weeks ago, after being repelled by a 1.75 hour wait at Roma d'Italia, we ended up at the other, bankable d'Italia -- Luigi's, on State College Blvd. in Anaheim -- and feasted on a juicy plate of their delicious fried calamari.

Very tender, very seasoned, and satisfyingly oily, as good with a spritz of lemon as with Luigi's excellent marinara sauce. Fried calamari is a must-order at Luigi's...a full plate, not a half.

Now Trending

From the Vault

 

Loading...