The Best Little Gourmet Taco Cart in Orange County: Soho Tacos
|Soho Taco's tacos|
Sixth entry in our series where we promise to review, for better or worse, every "high-end" roach coach that visits the Weekly's world headquarters. A Hawaiian shaved-ice truck visits next Monday--when will YOUR mobile food truck come? Inquire with Jessica Ford at firstname.lastname@example.org!
I must admit I had doubts about SoHo Taco based on its name alone--were its creators hipsters yearning to make OC hip? And my skepticism increased even more when I saw the group of clean-cut Mexis manning a taco cart outside Weekly world headquarters last week--were they the Lola Gaspar type of High-spanic? Yeah, I'm a judgemental wab--so sue me.
But I started talking to the main guy, a native of SanTana whose family owns a meat market near the spectacular Las Brisas de Apatzingan. Nice kid--but mine eyes were distracted by the bright, juicy pico de gallo before me.
And they had my much-mythologized queso añejo in stock? I fell in love before even eating a taco. Turns out the tacos were as delicious as the heirloom pico de gallo and queso--not small, juicy, with sharp meat flavors pertaining to each cut. Carne asada was properly burnt; carnitas, stringy and fatty; chicken, grilled down to perfect nubs. SoHo even offered tacos de cecina, salted beef approaching the richness of brisket, a choice that shows the guys' confidence in their cooking. The only problem I had with SoHo is that they sold their last bottle of Jarritos before I arrived, but they made it up by stocking Mexican Coca-Cola.
Can Mexicans out-gourmet the gourmet taco trucks? Damn straight. SoHo Taco is already on my rarefied list of places I'll visit again if I see them--just imagine the pleasures of their veggie taco fused with the queso añejo, a pleasure you can usually only find in the homes of zacatecanos. And these guys are michoacanas using cheese from Guerrero! The mind boggles at their potential if only they got a lonchera--in the meanwhile, their taco cart reigns over their peers. Someone sneak them into farmer's markets, stat!
Soho Taco is at--where else?--www.sohotaco.com