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The Great Vizzi-Ni: Coastal Cuisine Comes Inland

Categories: Mobile Meals
I ate at a food truck last week that did not feature a single fried item on its menu.

"INCON-THEE-VABLE!"

"You keep using that word. I do not think it means what you think it means."

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Courtesy of Vizzi Truck
Seriously, the Vizzi Truck does not sell a single deep-fried item. There are no fries, no onion rings, no croquettes, no hash browns, no tempura. Nothing. Nada. Zilch.

This involves sliders: wagyu beef braised with balsamic vinegar, skillet-grilled jidori chicken and some intriguing chickpea patties, which appear to be pan-fried (it doesn't count!). Instead of fries, the sliders (three per order) are served on top of a generous pile of popcorn that's been tossed with Yakima smoked salt and paprika. The popcorn is very good while warm; when it cools off, it goes the way of all popcorn: chewy and cardboardy.

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Dave Lieberman

The beef was very good, though I must admit I think using well-marbled, non-wagyu beef would not greatly reduce the richness of the dish but would reduce the price; the taste so particular to wagyu beef was lost with the balsamic vinegar, even though this latter was not overpowering.

The meat from the sliders is available in larger portions, paired with broccoli tossed in grapeseed oil, salt and pepper, the aforementioned popcorn and black Mission figs.

In place of the standard menu's butternut squash soup (it's about as far outside butternut squash season as it's possible to get), I opted for an excellent gazpacho, updated to modern tastes with Meyer lemon, serranos and cilantro oil, topped with shredded basil. This wouldn't be out of place in a fancy porcelain bowl in a white-tablecloth restaurant.

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Dave Lieberman

Desserts were limited to three kinds of small cookies; I opted for the maple cookies, since the other options contained white chocolate, one of the few substances on earth I flatly do not like. These were not a particular success; the cookie was unappealingly sandy and overwhelmingly sweet.

While this is not a cheap truck ($7 for three chickpea sliders, $9 for beef sliders, $6 for the gazpacho), the portions are reasonable, the food is very good, and it's a valuable addition to the trucks roaming occasionally into OC.

The Vizzi Truck is mostly based in LA but occasionally ventures south beyond the Orange Curtain; check their website and Facebook page, or follow them on Twitter.

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