Bueno Beignets at Bourbon Street, But Don't Order the Muffuletta

Ducked into Bourbon Street in downtown Fullerton during the John and Ken Tax Revolt this weekend, and the guy who said this was a great restaurant had it partially right. I went in before the masses invaded the parking lot outside, yet the service was slooooow (the waitress was apologetic, however). Wanted to try a po'boy, but $14 for a sandwich when Lee's Sandwiches is just down Harbor? PASS. $10 for a sandwich is also a bit much, but where else can you try a muffuletta sandwich except a bad version at my beloved Memphis Cafe? Don't bother with the one at Bourbon Street: dry bread loaves that crumbled easily, cold cuts that tasted straight from Ralph's prepackaged deli section, weak provolone slice, and a olive salad spread better suited to grease up a bodybuilder than feed a chap.

But those beignets! They came five big hunks of fried dough for $8, dusted with all the powdered sugar your body needs for a year. I nearly choked too many times when putting one in my mouth, but the sugar quickly turned into sweet frosting upon meeting the warmth of my mouth. Bourbon Street should've added some chicory to the vanilla ice cream to truly N'Awlins-ize the dessert, but no complaints from me. The other entrees cost too much, but Bourbon Street deserves a visit just for those great beignets; after that, visit Lee's.

Bourbn Street, Bar and Grill, 110 E. Commonwealth Ave., Fullerton, (714) 626-0050; www.bourbonstreetfullerton.com