Do OC Weekly Food Critics Practice Payola?

By Gustavo Arellano Wed., Jan. 21 2009 at 9:18 AM

Categories: Indigestion, News

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Last month, I took issue with The Filling Station in Orange because I felt they overcharged for merely good food. Over the weekend, owner John Hughes (not the same genius behind all those Brat Pack films) left this humdinger of a comment:

I always found it funny that OCweekly [sic] gives great reviews for people who advertise. Thus we never advertise. Food price is based on a 25-30% cost basis. Make your own omelet for $3 at home and you will have achieved something. So I'm confused, you thoroughly enjoyed your Turkey chili cheese omelet(which we make from scratch), but we are overpriced? Unfortunately, you shouldn't be making reviews if you have no concept of what it takes to run a restaurant. We serve 600 meals out of an 1,800SF facility on a Sunday(quite an amazing accomplishment). I don't expect every meal to be perfect, but we try our best. Sorry Gustavo, but I don't think you are qualified to write reviews. Give it 20 more years and I think you will be ready.

Yikes! Someone lost their pacifier! Before we dissect the guy's grief, however, let's take up Hughes' very serious charge of payola.

Does the OC Weekly "give great reviews for people who advertise"? Disregard the bad grammar of the sentence, and refry this: Hughes is full of you-know-what. Most of the restaurants that advertise with us never get mentioned in any way by either Edwin or I. My This Hole-in-the-Wall Life column focuses on places who have probably never heard of the Weekly or the English language, let alone want to advertise with us, and the stats prove it. According to records given to me by the Weekly's advertising department of every restaurant that advertised in our rag in 2008, only three restaurants of the 51 that I reviewed last year ever bothered to place an ad: the now-shuttered Carm's Coneys, Green Rice, and Eurostation. All appeared after my review was published. Edwin focuses more on new restaurants and higher-end places, but his record of reviewing restaurants that bought ads last year is only slightly better than mine: Slow Fish, Back Bay Bistro (not too kind of a review), Manhattan Supper Club, Victory Bakery (reviewed by me years ago) the Auld Dubliner, Blackmarket Bakery, Tokyo Table, and Blake's Place BBQ, and guess what? All of them appeared in our paper after Edwin's review.

Sorry, Hughes, but we don't praise restaurants simply because they buy ads, even though our very nice ad reps constantly leave menus on my desk insinuating I should review their clients and even though I've had many run-ins with corporate over the years because of the type of restaurants I review. Payola is unethical, and readers would immediately catch on. Now that I've shown you to be talking out of your ass, care to apologize to Edwin and I?

PS: to say I "shouldn't be making reviews if you have no concept of what it takes to run a restaurant" is the same propaganda cops use on us whenever we take them to task for killing people. I'm notorious for being a cheapskate, and I'm always bemoaning the cost of food in my column even while recommending it, so my criticism of The Filling Station remains. Readers: not only does the Filling Station overprice people for food, it's also run by a pendejo. Avoid at all costs.

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"Now that I've shown you to be talking out of your ass" Gustavo, what are you talking about? All you proved was what you think. You even stated that the staff will drop off menus hoping you'll do reviews. So you don't think one of them might "hint" to an owner that they would push their menu to their editorial staff and maybe, just maybe, it might work. Doesn't matter what you do, my old honest and moral columnist. Hughes isn't talking about you and your code of conduct. He's talking about some ad person that might have said something pretty ethically wrong. Hughes could be lying. Yup. Bush did. Clinton did. Obama might. But maybe he didn't. And maybe he has a charge that shouldn't be discounted by a couple well-chosen words by someone who writes and debates better than the best of them. Where's your talent for uncovering bad stuff -- or is your own house too close to check?
Gustavo, It appears the touchy one is you! There is no need to use defamatory language while representing the OC Weekly. It seems reasonable to point out to a reviewer who states "I thoroughly enjoyed my turkey chili cheese omelette" and "The food quality doesn't match the Filling Stations high prices" to be potentially contradicting statements. Whereas, your response above shows a lack of maturity expected from a "professional". When we first opened we were constantly approached by OC Weekly to advertise and in return we would receive a good review. That is just a simple fact.
Dammit, I was just about to cancel my domain registration for Eat in OC! ;)
If you don't mean it that way then great. It just sounded like you were saying, "We do such a good job here that everyone else is unnecessary dead weight." Which is why I asked for clarification instead of assuming I knew what you meant.
You don't need a Rosetta Stone to understand what I say, Christian�I'm as straightforward as they come, in print and in person. Yes, Edwin and I cover the county food-wise like madmen, but just because we do doesn't mean everyone else should stop. Seriously, where did you get that idea?
Or maybe you do mean all the other bloggers should quit. Whatever the case may be mine still has better pictures than here; even then I don't see it as a competition. You tipped me off to the pozole verde at Las Brisas de Apatzingan, then I went and got pictures of it. http://ocmexfood.blogspot.com/2008/08/las-brisas-de-apatzingan-review-1.html Also, with the several OC food blogs out there I find that there's very little overlap in coverage and none of the bloggers thinking that they're in competition with the other ones.
Sounded like you were saying what you do here is enough food coverage for the county so that everyone else is superfluous but I will confess to having a hard time interpreting almost everything you say. Others seem to have the same issue. You come across rather harsh in print (and online) and I'm always telling people, "He's not like that in person." I think I should adopt a more harsh online persona. http://idioms.thefreedictionary.com/cover+the+waterfront "to talk about every part of a subject, or to deal with every part of a job."
Where did you get that idea? Strange...
"No disrespect to OC's other food bloggers, but between Edwin and I, we cover the proverbial pinche waterfront" So, everyone else should just quit?
No disrespect to OC's other food bloggers, but between Edwin and I, we cover the proverbial pinche waterfront. Fork N Knives: where are you?
Better watch our Gus, I think Nancy might be able to take you...
"If you think $8.75 isn't much for huevos rancheros, then you haven't visited enough Mexican restaurants!" I can take the dig. The last huevos rancheros I got were $3.50. Now $8.75 is more than twice as much as that but I said it's not "too outrageous" because it's still well within the ten dollar or less range. Even then I can't make a final evaluation of the huevos rancheros at The Filling Station because I haven't tried them yet so I don't know if they are worth the $8.75. I also don't know that they're not worth it. And, yeah, I've only been to 200 Mexican restaurants in the county (or very close to that number) so there's still ~150 left. I definitely have my work cut out for me. And we were supposed to meet up at Mariscos Licenciado sometime.
Fork n Knives has yet to respond. Meanwhile, over at the OC Register's Fast Food Maven blog, s/he accused us of deleting his comment above. So, not only is s/he makes wild accusations, s/he's also a liar. NICE.
What a shame that in the same era a black president is sworn into office a simple food critic can't do his job. Filling Staion needs to get over it. Not all reviews are going to say "A+". Otherwise we wouldnt call them "reviews"...duh.
Filling Station sucks.
wow you must of hit a nerve with that Filling Station pendejo...LOL I guess what he is trying to saythat your not cool enough to eat at his joint. The place is a overpriced dump, Thanks for the great review and keep up the good work.
I'm just here because The Register told me to come here. Looks like I won't be going by the filling station anytime soon though.
The last few time we ate there the service was sloooow! Nice servers but must be inexperienced. We sat down and five minutes later no water no order taken.. Plenty of help but it seems like everyone is trying to do as little as possible.
Gustavo: I'd say you should reconsider the food, but if the owner's going to be that much of a liar, forget it! Viva Gustavo!
You both sound like immature kids.
Personally, I stopped eating there a couple years ago after several times sitting on the patio and having to listen to Harley's drive by as well as other obnoxious vehicles. It's annoying. Too bad because the food is great! Sitting inside is a little too stuffy though.
Oh I know our service is good since we are regulars, and since we actually tip pretty well because of how nice they are to us (it goes both ways). @Krystal : You claim to have had the Eggs Florentine but say it had ham, sounds to me like you had the Eggs Benedict... Dammit Gus you are making me have to do a real review of the place now on my site! *shakes fist* Here are some pictures from meals we've had there. http://eatinoc.com/nggallery/page-667/album-1/gallery-9/ Can't wait to hear about the visit to Bangkok Taste.
COOL! The Roti was awesome, by the way!
Poppa and Momma: Don't think I've forgotten about our dinner at Bangkok Taste! A review to come...
OK hungrymomma-sita your on! Gustavo chickening out on bets... i would think not. Please be more specify Fork N Knives and don't just make an unsubstantiated claims. Spill it
Oh, and anyone who reads my stuff knows I brag about attending Orange Coast College, not Chapman.
Oooh, trolls! Dude: I still write my �Ask a Mexican! column, and guess what? I've been reviewing restaurants TWICE as long, so I must be doing something right. Fork N Knives: How do I chicken out on bets?
<h1><center>LAME REVIEW!You should have kept your "ask a mexican" article...you're no good at reviewing food.
HungryPoppa: Ok ok, I will take you for breakfast, my treat! :)
I agree with the Filling Station. I have always thought they are reasonably priced and the food is always consistent. Either way Gustavo needs to get over himself. His reviews are a bore. For the most part it is just him dropping names or mentioning some information that is a bit obscure that you know he has only just heard about and doesn't really grasp but says it to be " look at me I am smart ... look look I went to Chapman!!" He is like a cranky dictator, whenever there is dissent he condemns and mocks the dissenter and he chickens out on bets too!!! hahaha
I didn't really enjoy my breakfast at the Filling Station. The reccommended plate from the waitress was the Eggs Florentine. It was a mess from the start trying to eat it, too much food on my plate, and I had the hardest time cutting through my ham. The flood was really just bland and not really memorable. They had someone fixing the vent making alot of noise while we were eating our Sunday brunch...really didn't make me want to come back again. I rather eat a bagel at Starbucks, and I'm not a Starbucks fan either!!
Grammarians: Gracias for finding the Easter egg in my post! Edjusted: Hear, hear! Dan: The Filling Station's service wasn't amazing, wasn't bad. No different than most spots. You obviously get great service 'cause you're a regular. Christian: If you think $8.75 isn't much for huevos rancheros, then you haven't visited enough Mexican restaurants! Hungrypoppa: GREAT twist of the clich�
Hungrymomma I will take you up on your offer if its your treat! Hola! Mr Hughes if you can't stand the critics get OUT of the kitchen.
Well, he thinks you should love him because he's used to people heaping mondo praise on their food and such. I personally am not a big fan of Filling Station, but mostly because it doesn't really fit my tastes at all. I don't like big food, and I don't like most American food, so there you go. I remember having a huge slice of pie there. It was decent, but I make better pie. It's too bad he can't take a bad review in stride. I personally think it's worse for his business to mouth off the way he has done, than to just suck it up and let it go.
"This doesn't appear IMHO to jive with something I recall from a few years ago" The word is "jibe" BTW, I've never been to The Filling Station but this whole brouhaha is just calling it to my attention. Now I kind of want to go there. Has anyone had the huevos rancheros there? Was it worth $8.75? That price doesn't sound too outrageous.
Gus: Maybe I'll have to ask him about it on Sunday, if I get the nerve to. But I'm actually not much of a small talker. I guess I just don't agree with it being overpriced when I compare it to other breakfasts I have from time to time. Maybe we will have to check out Old Vine one of these days, but it's not just down the street like The Filling Station. Also my wife laughed when I told her you thought it was overpriced right now. And we both agree that their service is usually really great there (didn't see you mention anything about the service but if I remember correctly you guys don't normally talk about the service, you care most about the food itself). Anyway keep up the good work, but leave my Filling Station alone ;) j/k.
I think I'm with MikeS (if I interpreted his post correctly). I know I'm nitpicking, but don't pull out an argument about the guy's grammar when you misused the objective pronoun twice in one article. Sorry...it just gets on my nerves.
Gustavo is not only one of the best food writers in southern California, he's one of the best writers-period....there is nothing I have seen that would indicate that his column is for sale to the highest bidder-keep up the good work!
I used to do food reviews for a Southern California newspaper. I wrote a so-so review and was told by the managing editor to rewrite it to sound more positive BECAUSE THEY RUN AN AD IN OUR NEWSPAPER. I shortly thereafter stopped doing dining reviews.
I've never eaten at the Filling Station so I can't comment on the review, but I have major issues with this statement: you shouldn't be making reviews if you have no concept of what it takes to run a restaurant. What does that have to do with anything? That's *your* (the restauranter's) problem! Running a restaurant is the same as any other business: you gotta sell a product that'll satisfy enough customers to make a profit. How you do it is your problem. So what difference does it make if a reviewer (i.e. a customer with a voice) knows your business or not?
Dan: All I was saying is that I felt The Filling Station overpriced. If I pay a buck more, I have a MUCH better omelet at Old Vine. But Hughes took this as an attempt to smear Edwin and I. He and others can have issues with our opinions, but to accuse us of payola, one of the most serious sins a journalist can commit? No nice guy does that.
Mr. Hughes wrote: "Food price is based on a 25-30% cost basis." Hmmm. This doesn't appear IMHO to jive with something I recall from a few years ago, when Paul Sorvino was talking about his BevHills eatery on the classic old Politically Incorrect. Specifically, Sorvino was talking about his restaurant's most popular linguini dish. According to him, the menu price: $11.95. Price to prepare, including labor: 11 cents. Maybe I'm missing something?
I'm reprinting here a comment DanGarion left on my previous post about The Filling Station, just so I can respond in kind: Where the heck did this post come from? This is the first I've seen of it, I must have lost it in my news reader. I'm going to have to agree with "The Filling Station" (who must be John the owner, which I might add is a really great guy that both my wife and I enjoy chatting with on Sundays, but back to my response). I need to disagree with you here Gustavo, you are saying the food is good and saying it's more expensive then Norms, but better, and then less expensive then Old Vine but not as spruced up... What am I missing here? Now maybe you struck a nerve, since The Filling Station is both my wife's and my favorite place to have a nice early Sunday breakfast, or the occasional mid day lunch on Mondays, but I'd pay the extra dollar or two any day to go to the Filling Station then to eat the crap they serve that is called food at Norm's or Denny's. My normal breakfast consists of getting the Eggs Florentine with the Hollandaise on the side (they use too much so I'd rather spoon just enough on it myself). Or my other favorite is the Pancake Breakfast with CORN MEAL pancakes, on man those things are delicious. There is middle ground and that is where John and his staff hit a homerun at The Filling Station. -Daniel
I'll still be eating there and I'll still be enjoying the food...
NICE! I loved your come back.. no denying the stats. I still wanna try the Filling Station, just not in a rush to make it out there.. Not down w/kickin' it with 600 people on a Sunday in a 1800 square foot room.. I am sure that means they have a horrible wait time. Gracias Gustavo for the smart and ethical reply to this guys letter!
There's nothing wrong with the word "me."
Not to belabor the obvious, but Gustavo is also more than qualified to review this grease pit. He's the best food writer outside the Jonathan Gold/S. Irene Virbila orbit in L.A., and he's a solid journalist with two well-regarded books under his belt to boot. To suggest otherwise is to blame the messenger, make an ad hominem argument, or otherwise be a sour kook.
Touchy, much, Mr. Hughes? I used to frequent The Filling Station more often but haven't been for a while, even though it's just down the street. But after checking out the sass on this guy's pants, I'm wondering if I should ever go back. Sheeesh.
I can make a $3 turkey chili cheese omelet. Even buying everything from Trader Joe's.
You tell 'em Gustavo!